I recently got my first one and i really like it, but the battery feels a bit low. I went out for an hour or so yesterday (fully charged) went home and turn my remote off. But when i wanted to go out again today my battery was empty. Do i really have to charge this remote everyday? Do you know the capacity of the battery cause i really want to do an upgrade. cheers
be careful with that remote at low battery. its been known to throw people off their boards
My battery lasted for at least 3-4 days (8 mile ride each day). I might’ve gone longer but I ended up charging it. There may be something wrong with the remote.
@Raf I’m not convinced this is the cause of the signal issue. I’ve had weird issues even on higher charge.
ahh okay, I’ve just read a lot of people saying when it gets low the signal isn’t as strong and can cut off
@raf thanks but i really don’t need such tips i set my remote up in the right way, dropout leads to freewheel no braking or accelerating, it’s done and tested by myself so don’t worry. really just want to discuss the battery here
maybe i just got one with a bad battery, if @jinra’s lasts that long
no worries, was just a heads up incase you didn’t know. as for your battery, the actual battery might be the problem. maybe buy a replacement and see if thats still a problem
Maybe get a replacement battery just in case
i think i’ll do that. some one knows the capacity of this one? anyways i’ll get the biggest i can fit^^ my previous had 2 NCR.GA’s upgrade and i never ever charged it but can’t fit them in this one
The battery could just be garbage. It’s a non branded cell.
This looks like the exact one
I have one that doesn’t last, also. I put a larger battery in it and it still does not hold the charge for that long. I think we both have semi-defective ones. Something is using the battery even when it’s off. I just charge mine before I need to use it.
did you try to modify so that the switch turns off gnd from battery? could help if some parasitic drain is the reason
make sure the binding is good on those Winnings guys. Jason sent me these instrux because i kept streeting my face on a repair and could not figure out what the deal was. It turned out to be the remote binding and something they call “fail-safe functionality.” Beleive me, without it, it fails very unsafe.
Please test the fail-safe functionality (like moving the transmitter as far away from the board and checking if the motor shuts down if out of reach). If the motors doesn’t shut down or applies brakes, please perform the following steps for binding and calibrating:
Check and make sure all the wires are connected and that the REMOTE is OFF. Insert the bind plug into CH3(Bind) on the RECEIVER.
With the REMOTE OFF: switch on the ESC to power up the RECEIVER, the red LED light will flash.
PRESS and HOLD the bind button on the REMOTE and then turn the REMOTE ON.
You should notice the REMOTE and RECEIVER LED light go from flashing red to solid red.
Once you see a solid red light, the binding process is complete. Then without turning the REMOTE OFF or touching the THROTTLE pull the bind plug out (for the receiver to record the throttle mid point, neutral, to engage the fail safe)
Then you can test it again by turning OFF the REMOTE and the RECEIVER LED should flash. By turning the REMOTE ON the RECEIVER LED should go back to solid red.
Before riding, it’s better to test the fail safe functionality again. Leave the board powered on and switch the REMOTE off: if the motor isn’t moving, the fail safe function is working, if the motor is moving fast or abruptly braking while throttle is applied: you have to repeat step No.1- No.6
I’ve made sure binding was fine on mine, but still continued to have problems. There was definitely something not working 100% right with the remote. 99% of the time everything was fine but occasionally my brakes wouldn’t work or my throttle would get stuck acceleration for 2~ seconds; enough time to make me a bit nervous. After that it would intermittently respond/not respond for 5-10 seconds or until I restarted.
I noticed it happened consistently after getting off my train, so perhaps it’s more prone to external interference.
After switching to the benchwheel remote, I’ve yet to run into any signal related issues.
i’m willing to bet this is what jason is resolving with his new remotes. Other than the same-channel issue, which really isn’t an issue as it seems like a no brainer in hind sight, I’m happy with the steezes. Two things i don’t like about them though is the price and the way they don’t fit in a pocket very well.
@Jinra You think if we had a add a capacitor it will help with connection uses? Couldn’t hurt I guess…
A small capacitor could easily fit across the battery terminals.
I’m no electrical engineer so I couldn’t tell ya. Somehow, I think it’d be more complicated than that though.
I have two
One def last for days the other one day
an better antenna could help maybe, the one in the winning remote looks very poor