Yeah and it explains why you never had any problems with Lipos
If the system works…
Reason why I wanted a 10s3p instead of a 10s2p is partly because of reduced stress on the batteries. I reckon i’ll have 15 miles range using pneumatic wheels and I’ll not have to worry about voltage sag. Should also have superior LiPo battery life if i charge to a max of 41V and discharge to 3.6, and of course I won’t have to charge that often either…
I love my Lipos but about the C rating x AH for current. There’s no way that that’s an accurate number. And 10C multistar pack might work ok when your 120lbs running on flat ground. But when your 190+ going uphill, it’s a different story
Just to throw in my cut off values I use 3.8-3.6 per lipo cell as the top and bottom cut off values most I’ve ever seen it put back in was around 3.4-3.6Ah on a 5Ah battery… From what I’ve read 80% of Ah use is usually ideal for cell life.
Given that lipos are “dead” at about 3.5-3.6v, it’s not much of a loss. Plus it’ll account for any voltage sag in case of stressful rides at low battery levels.
It is huge loss as Lipos have a very flat discharge curve at their nominal voltage of 3.7v. check some discharge curves!
I’ve seen them. Maybe @lowGuido can provide us some numbers on the range he gets vs the WH of his pack?
I dont have any real scientifically accurate figures, but from memory most of my rides are about 7km and use around 3000mah maybe 3500mah. I have so many different boards with different batteries but most are 6S ranging from 5000mah to 10000mah during summer I might do the odd 16km skate and thats usually getting towards the deep discharge area. longest skate I ever had was 22km, and that was full discharge of 6S 8000mah.
Hey guys thought id jump in and give my 2 cents because I have a similar battery setup. Pretty much im running 4x 3S 5Ah Lipos in a 6S2P config for a total of 10Ah at 6S (gonna do a 12S1P eventually) so that means I have the balance leads of each 3S pack in parallel connected to my BMS. So far this has worked fine for me and none of my cells have had any problems. This is mainly due to the fact that cells in parallel like to keep each other at around the same voltage anways. Like @lowGuido said in theory I dont see any problems with this setup, however if you mess up then obviously theres gonna be some problems, though thats kinda the nature of LiPo’s. Also for my charging setup I just have a 24V PSU I got off eBay and adjusted the voltage to 25.2V and its limited at 8A using a CC/CV boost converter. Also @riva_00 if you were planning on charging your board WITHOUT a BMS, I cant recommend that just in case one of your cells over discharges and causes them to overcharge, even if your only charging to 4.1V.
They do sell those on eBay, they usually just show battery capacity in % and you just tell it what voltage pack your using, and it figures out the rest. I prefer to use the exact type of meter you linked that shows the complete voltage because im use to just knowing my pack capacity by that. Usually something like THIS.
That doesn’t really make sense… when I’m down to 3.6V and I recharge 3.6Ah on a 5Ah battery that means I used 72% of the battery. Am I leaving 28% in the pack unused… would I rather do that then have any single cell be below the low voltage limit where it will run away and ruin the whole pack… yeah.
thats what it is though. can’t argue with facts? Thats what C rating is. It is literally C times capacity equals current.
and look at my mate! without being rude to him hes about 220lbs and smashing me with a 10C multistar. don’t even forget that its pushing a 430kv motor.
just think that over for a few moments… 220lbs… 430kv… the current from that multistar is amazing.
What does not make sense here? Where do you think the remaining energy is?
I meant going down to 3.8ish V (maybe a bit lower really I go down to 3.6) is using more than 50% of the pack. Yes I think the remaining energy is in the pack but I’m saying I think that’s fine the main point is to not let any cell sag so low that it dies or gets damaged not to get the pack to 0%
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=61672&start=175
I don’t get it. 3.8ish is not 3.6 - there is like the entire capacity in between. 3.8 is not using half while 3.6 is using more than half of the capacity. What does “fine” mean? You can discharge to only 3.8 and never have a problem so obviously it is fine. You should know though that a cutoff of 3.5V will allow you to go much further as there is a lot of unused energy in the pack.
Yeah about 28% of 12 miles or about an extra 3 miles but I’ve burned out a cell before and basically had to ditch the whole pack because of it so stick with more conservative values. You can have more than .5V drop while the battery is under load it’s just a small bit risky imo but do what works for you.
there is more than 28% left in the pack if you stop at 3.8V - looks like 60% https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=62932#p940866
Yeah I start my battery cut off at 3.8 and end at 3.6 per cell lowguido said 3.8ish I realize there’s a good amount of capacity with typical loads between 3.8 and 3.6 but ish was good enough for me.
I know the theory, what I’m saying and others have pointed this out to me before I realized it, is that the C value is often over rated making the current calculation inaccurate. For example my 5ah/ 60/120C packs 300a cont and 600a peak. I say it’s rubbish. If it where true, why are the battery wires only rated for 75a And why do I still get some sag when only drawing 30-40a I love these batteries and they do perform well compared to others but 600a? Really? I bet if I laid a 600 amp load on this battery even for a second that it would explode. Do you see what I mean?
Because bigger numbers are better 
600A load - I guess that would be a short 