Wiring diagram - For my first build

I beg to differ. If you’re getting ready for work and you have your skateboard and remote but can’t find the loopkey, it can most certainly hurt

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No? Maybe Ive got it mixed up with all the e-switches that are DOA then

LOL, I guess it would. But that’s why I keep an extra at work and another extra in my backpack :).

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or when you have your loopkey but cant find your board ! :smile:

So the fuse of how many amps it should be?

There is no consensus on that here, but go through these threads for some thoughts and tips

You really don’t need a fuse with that BMS. It has external short circuit protection that works very well.

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So I removed the fuse since it seems to not be necessary and bc it’s hard to find a high amp fuse small enough. I added a xt90 after the battery so it can be separated.

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Just gotta say - this thread is very helpful. I’m planning my first build and the wiring has me a little stumped. Reading through this thread has certainly made things easier to understand - thank you. The Focbox thing still has me a little stumped, but I plan to read up on this over the next week while I wait for the parts to start arriving.

This forum rocks.

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Glad it’s useful for you. I was in your position like 2 months ago. I couldn’t find it at the moment so I created expecting that.

Hi guys, a new builder here needs help. I ordered this for a 10s3p 30q battery pack. Will be using it in discharge mode. Can I use a power switch without anti-spark with it? The reason I’m asking is some BMS mention the power switch capability in specs, but I couldn’t find the mentioning for this particular BMS. Maybe it’s just a conventional wisdom that with BMS you don’t need anti-spark? The BMS itself seems like a good quality product, hope it will serve me well.

Nope. You need an anti spark to solve the inrush when connecting caps to lithium power sources. The bms you link doesn’t include this

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Thank you for the answer, although that’s a bummer for such pricey BMS. One more question, can I hide it inside the enclosure, or it needs to be disconnected sometimes (e.g. for charging)?

I don’t follow. What do you want to know ou’d it had to be disconnected when charging??

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I want to keep the anti-spark in connected permanently and hide it under enclosure, so that I only use the power switch to turn the board on/off. Can I do it? I read somewhere, that the anti-spark needs to be disconnected when the board is charging, but not sure right now.

That is not a thing. The only thing I can imagine you have found is somebody using an xt90s connector with built in antispark, both for connecting batteries to the esc suppressing sparks and for charging the battery. In your case you will have a bms wired to the battery. A charge connector wired to the bms and the batteries also connected to the esc through the antispark switch. Which is a very very common setup so I’m sure there are diagrams around

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Hi, I have built a electric longboard. I used it one summer but I wanted to upgrade. It was a hazel to unplug the battery’s every time and plug them in to the balance charger.

Therefore I decided to add a BMS, 3 pin charge port and a small battery presenting indicator for easy use… I decided to bypass BMS. I started with wiring the cables like the picture below, but forgot plug in the motor ore the balance wires to the battery’s(I did not plug in the XT-90). When I plugged inn my charger the BMS became super hot(to hot to touch). I though it was because my battery balance leads were not plugged inn. Therefore I plugged in my balance leads and tried again. This time the 3 pin charge port and the charger welded together. Then I plugged in the XT-90 to complete the main circuit. This was a bad decision on my behalf, because the battery’s started to expand, my cables and connecters started to smoke, and the VESC MOSFETs melted through the heat shrink. This lead to all my electronics getting destroyed. :frowning:

I believe the wiring is the problem. I did not have the motor plugged inn. Can this have an effect on what happened.

But can anyone just take a quick look at this whirring and tell me if it is right. Do I nead the black whier form battery 2 to B- on the BMS?

Thanks :wink:Untitled

No, I don’t see why you would need to add the thin black wire to B-.

Personally, I would double check the polarity of your charger, and your charge port.