Wiring new deck in BOTH 6S and 12s

This is my third Eskate, I have a 6s and 12s already and I like them both for different reasons. Now I’m trying to get the best of both and adding a few things I didn’t have on my other decks but I’m running in to a few bumps in the design. I have diagrams for both a 6 and 12 cell build but I wanted to somehow connect both of them with some sort of switch. (6s/off/12s) going to add some sort of Display for the voltage and a better mechanism for charging. The parts list includes two vesc that I’m using have a 300a peak and 60a contenous. http://www.enertionboards.com/electric-skateboard-parts/FOCBOX-programmable-brushless-motor-controller/ Does anyone know of a switch I can use to do this that can handle the 300a? I’m also trying to permanently mount these lipos because opening my case every time I have to charge it sucks.

I have four of these liposuction ready to install but I’m getting a little lost when it comes to wiring all of these to a single charger. To my knowledge all I’ll need is one BMS for each stage a 6s and a 12s depending on what side of the switch I’m on but If I’m being honest I have no idea. The last two decks I wired had to be dismantled every time I charged it. I tried uploading the scamatics i drew up for this one but for some reason the site isn’t liking pictures from my iPad but the parts list so far include 4x 6s lipo, 2x VESC, and two motors. I know I need a voltmeter, a good charger, and at least one 12s BMS Need to find the best BMS and fastest charger for the project also could use a little help drawing a new scamatic incorperating the new parts or a more efficient design I’m aware this is a bit over my head but I’m sure it’s easier then I think and totally doable with some solid advice. any help would be GREATLY appreciated

There are switches you can use designed to switch between battery banks in rv’s boats etc but they are huge expensive and huge. I think you are better off mounting An xt90s female in each battery bank and a single male towards the escs. That way you can plug one or the other

i have a q for you what is better for high speeds a lower or higher kv motor

Really?

Try a simple search and if you don’t find what you are looking for you need to work on your google-fu.

It may be easier to use google or whatever instead of the forums search function *ymmv

Try this:

Electricskateboard.builders What kv? I feel the need for speed

@Malakai Are you intending on using it @6s so other people can ride it without needing immediate medical attention?

Just curious, as I’d thought about this very same thing for riding in hilly areas.

Would be kind of nice to have a Jekyl and Hyde setup. Well mannered for casual cruising, and then flip a switch for bsc hill climbing mode

If talking about straight switching from parallel or series between 2 banks that’s possible but the BMS situation I’m not sure about.

Was thinking I could double the amp hours for the battery when I was in flat areas but toning it down for curious friends would be an added bonus

Would it really matter? Same watt hours

I’m confused what the benefit of having a 12s1p & a 6s2p battery is when you could just have a 12s2p? unless slower with less torque is the goal? It certainly won’t go further in my experience. 12s with FOC on a FOCBOX is more than I’d try though…

I already have two boards with pretty similar parts I use my 6s all the time and my 12s sits in my trunk unless I am in an area with lots of hills of have a friend riding with me this build was me trying to combine them so I could potentially get rid of my first set up the 6s. Two hybrid decks would be way better then one of each

So you want to carry 2 diff battery setups and be able to switch between them?

I didn’t want to mount two sets of batteries I wanted to be able to switch from parallel to series with a switch. It’s the first time permanently mounting a battery so naturally i found myself trying to add way more features then I need to. If it’s impossible or will ruin the efficiency of my set up then I can always keep the 6s for other people since it lasts all day, and is probably better for people to learn on anyways.

It’s more to tone it down in flat areas and for beginners

You can just load a low power profile using the extended firmware and an Android or ios app and just have a 12s battery

So I decided to cut the system in half because having all four on one line brought the amperage higher then my parts can handle. After a bit of reading I saw these diagrams

Then I drew up a new one with the parts I have hoping the 300a anti spark switch I have will work in place of the loop key this will be mirrored if it all works The battery pack should be 10000mah 12s 300a and all the parts have been rated to at least that. It’s the first time I’ve done a permanent mounted battery so I could use a little help with the wiring.

Forgot to add a voltameter at the anti spark switch

Definitely don’t hook it up like you have drawn.

If you’re trying to put them in parallel, the polarity of the top battery is reversed. If you’re going for series, it’s even more wrong (For series, it should be: lower battery NEG to anti-spark NEG / lower battery POS to upper battery NEG / upper battery POS to anti-spark POS)

And you can’t hook them up in parallel while connected to a dual balance charger

The balance leads will be on the outside of my case and the balance charger would have only been attached when I had the other electronics off. Or so I thought? I saw the page about using a loop key for this and assumed I could use the switch the same way? If I’m wrong, is there a better way to do it?

Is this any better?

The first diagram is fine as far as I can see. I take it that little adapter will be used to connect the batteries together and to the Vesc? So it will be 12s1p?