Yuneec E-GO Budget Upgrade

great! yea thats a pack i could put to good use. Good luck sir!

Hey RPB, I can’t wait to here the results! I’m gonna go check out the thread on endless sphere. One thing you should know, which I found out when I was tinkering with mine is that the stock battery is set up a little different than the space cell. Where the on/off switch turns the electronics on, not the battery. The battery leads are always hot. So either lipos or space cell, you’ll need a switch to turn the electronics on. I don’t know if you’ve ever dismantled yours but there are 2 high current wires and 2 low current wires coming from the battery box. I’m assuming that the small wires go from the switch to the control module. Good luck.

From what I remember from the thread, those two small wires are temp sensors and had no effect on the Lipos with stock ESC. The Space Cell has a contained BMS, power button and fuse so should be ok to connect direct to the ESC leads unless I’m missing something.

I just remember that the main wires were hot with the switch on or off

Found a thread on Endless Sphere. A guy put a 10s battery on his yuneec ego and after 1 month the esc failed.

this is why I suggest upgrade to VESC

Yes, Upgrade to 10s and Vesc. And while we’re at it, might as well upgrade the 400watt motor. This is why I suggested selling it and building another Diy. Trying to supe up an ego seems like false economy. Ive decided to just sell mine. I posted it on Craigslist for $450 and I have a potential buyer coming tomorrow.

@lowGuido @Namasaki great points, just want to emphasize that this is to create a beater build just used for filming, not to supe it up with false expectations. This is also based on one documented case of someone blowing their ESC from 10s and one who seems to have put theirs through the ringer and is still going. But who knows as that thread appears to have died. If I manage to get better footage filming with an EGO 10s, taking care not to overuse it, that’s worth it to me. If I blow the ESC and end up replacing it with a VESC, still worth those moments of filming than building a completely new build from scratch that I will only be using to follow my two other builds. If I had the disposable income to make a board from scratch purely as a follow vehicle right now I would, but for now experimenting on the EGO for research is doable for me at this moment

I totally see your point of view and I am very interested in the outcome. I agree that it’s worth trying with the stock electronics. About the guy who fried his, I’m thinking, it lasted a month before dying so he probably got over confident and started driving it hard uphill and just overheated it.

Yup I’m more than happy to document it with some ride stats until it blows. For me, the EGO was like a gateway drug to DIY, I’m still trying to hold onto it :smile:

Any news on the Ego upgrade?

I ended up frying my ESC with a 10s7p Li(NCM) pack.

I would suggest something closer to 8s to start, but I was at 27 mph and climbing crazy hills for a 1x 400watt motor setup.

I had a wattmeter inline, voltage only dropped from 37.7 to 36.1 during the 1 mile trip (30minutes) and only a few watts got eaten up hill. It was cold out (Boston, MA) so I can’t say if anything heated up, but I’m waiting on my Yuneec rep to get back to me about parts.

10s killed mine (Just happened a week ago). Try 8s.

Wow!! 27mph That’s amazing with a single 400watt motor! I think the stock battery is already 8s. Maybe the voltage didnt fry the esc. Just overheated it with the heavy load going uphill

Still hasn’t come back to life.

For reference: 19 years old, 129lbs, 5’7-11" (I broke my back over a year ago, so my height changes a lot). Largest hill scaled: Packard Ave (from Powder House Road to Capen Street NE) [42.407084, -71.121659] Weather: -6 degrees centigrade with -10 degree centigrade windchill. Boston can be cold and unforgiving. Nothing was hot or smoking when I stopped. No melting motor enamel, so its the ESC.

I only realized I lost power as I was going downhill and regen braking died. I slid around an uphill corner before I exceeded 34mph and managed to get off without losing face. The old modding/teardown post we’re referencing discussed the contemporary E-Go mosfets as F3205zs which should have been able to handle the voltage safely. They clearly changed hardware (because 6 mosfets are now in the battery where the power switch now resides) leaving a couple behind in the ESC compartment. I’m not going to open mine up now, but if it gets repaired I certainly will. The original ESC featured amp limiting (15 Amp max draw) with a 130kv (ish) Delta Wye motor (30-50 amps safe). Every motor I have received from Yuneec sounds different - which leads me to believe that they’re trying something different each batch.

Here are my notes from the original post:

Yuneec E-Go Specs

9-Pin Motor Cable Temperature sensor is clipped (White Cable)

Hall EMF Sensors 30 Degrees Glued to the top of the Stators (Not inside?)

Gearing 13t to 35t

Battery Pack 4.2V LiFePO4 Battery, 29.4V x 7.8 Amp Hours

BMS No Mosfet on board, but ther is a small cable coming from battery pack that contains 5V to activate the mosfet in the speed controller.

ESC Contains 12 Mosfets instead of 6? 6 for the ESC 6 For the BMS Mosfets (F3205zs) Upgrade the battery to Sony VTC4 Cells to get 60-90 Amp output Motor can handle it. BMS & ESC can handel it if there is no Amp Limitation. Chipset (Mega32E5) Easily flashed/copied/etc. Built in Bluetooth

Motor Peak Draw is 10-15Amps Wound between 110-130kv (Not normal Delta Dlark Winidng) Theory If 250kv 55 Motor has a recomended amp of 50-80 amps. If its a delta to Wye, then its 30-50amp Motor should be able to handle of 1000W, but because of low KV its top is onyl 20km/Hr.

Targets for Improvement Sony VTC5 Cells (7s3p) for Hills ($~120) NTM 5055 270kv 8mm Shaft (Check Hall Alignment)

Credit to Jacobbloy (Feb 12, 2015), Post:; “E-Go by Yuneec Internationl”


I’ll do some modding on my spare motor and VESC since I’m down a board until Yuneec CS geta back to me.

I just ordered the cable in question:

The 3 phase wires pins are 14 AWG single core, so max VESC current would be 24Amps, but I don’t know the actual wire gauge within the cable. I’ll stop at 15 amps and later at 20 amps. The remaining 6 pins connect to 5 visible wires in my spare motor (BL, RD, GR, YL, BL) which should be sensor wires (GND, 5V, Phase 1, Phase 2, Phase 3) excluding the white thermal wire as per Jacobbloy’s notes.

VESC to Yuneec Motor should be a simple change - If I get it working, I’ll post a sensor pinout for the 9-Pin.

EDIT: Just chatted with Jacobbloy, VESC can identify the pinout for me. When the wire arrives I’ll give it a test and come up with basic VESC config.

Any news on if this upgrade was a succes

It works.

I’m waiting on better JST connectors so I can finalize the mod, but its solid. The wires are factory color coded (pin out is super easy because the VESC can auto detect the phases). Building housing for it under my deck is a priority.

Max amps are set at 15 and things are running pretty cool. I’m reusing the Yuneec battery (built in BMS with Switch). I can post some pictures when I put my JST connectors on and make it look nice.

That’s freaking awesome!

Can u make a simpel step for step guide for u pictures when u post them? i’m not that big of a brain myself :blush: