@kaiser The ESC latches into the battery. Unscrew both and just lift out the ESC.
@RunPlayBack The performance with my settings has been good - I drive around DC (up and down hills for about 26 miles over 9 hours with 2x 15 minutes wall plugs around 25V). FOC is slower than BLDC it seems, but BLDC is unreliable with this motor without working Hall (Idk why, but its something to investigate). Until I know more about the battery’s BMS max output, I am capping the VESC draw at 25 Amps - I’m going up to 30Amps tomorrow.
30 amps from the battery has been fine more or less - no damage or heating up thus far. The phase wires are a tad thinner than many so I would suspect that you’ll want better wires - so with the original Yuneec Motor/Cable you’ll want to be careful.
That is the correct cable. With JST clips you can try to connect the motor to the HALL bus, but it’s tricky.
Ok thx… i will try to order it .
i will try something out… ill will try to put some batteries in by still using the old charger, http://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-3.7v-10000mah-battery.html just need to finde some batteryes there can fit inside the olde case ,
Don’t mix the cells and I’m not sure the Yuneec BMS is flexible enough to be used with alternate battery cells. Have you built a battery pack before (I can give you some pointers)?
Hi,
i have two yuneec boards but one has connection issues. Could i combine them to make a diagonal drive driven by the same battery? I figure that with the ESCs limited to 15 amp each I would not pull more than 30 from the battery. It would be a heavy board but may handle the 12 degree incline in my neighborhood more easily. No idea about top speed, but more than 11mph… Any thoughts?
@anon94428844 I’m thinking about doing this myself, but I did have a couple clarifying questions–
Was the top speed changed at all with the VESC or is that still limited by the E-Go’s battery voltage?
The 26 miles you mentioned I imagine has to be with charging (you say “2x 15 minutes wall plugs around 25v”). Did you really only charge for ~30 minutes to go the 26 miles or am I completely reading that wrong? Even though the E-Go battery is pretty big, that still seems like a lot of distance w/o at least one complete charge…
Also, regarding braking with FOC-- is it noticeably different than the power of the stock E-Go brakes? I was doing some reading and it seemed like w/o the Hall sensor working, only the regenerative braking works.
And one last one-- the BMS is connected to the E-Go battery, right? If that’s true, then would this mean that you can still use the existing power switch and wall plug?
Sorry, I didn’t see this reply. The original cells in the 7s3p battery have a max contjnous discharge port cell of 20amps. That said, I rode single at 30Amps without issues - but check your motor for cooling issues. The voltage will affect top speed, but these motors are wound with a low kV (which means that your top speed can be influenced also by the current you pump through them).
When I burned out my original Yuneec ESC, I was going close to 30mph up hills with this battery. With the VESC limited to 70Amp from my custom battery (cont.disch of 70, pulse 120) and 20Amp motor for 10s, my max speed is something like 14-18 mph. If I push my motor current to 30Amp I get more speed but I stress the motor more.
No, that’s accurate. The original ESC battery cut offs might be higher that mine. My VESC cut offs are based on Cells @ 3.5V and 3.3V. Additionally I was riding in DC with flats and hills (easy regeneration, my Nisan leaf (poor 70 mile battery) doesn’t lose much battery in town except via climate control). I also am light enough that I d get about 18miles with the original ESC.
I’m using sensorless FOC quite successfully and more smoothly than the stock ESC. I will say my settings confuse me. My regen starts at -160Amps and that give me a smooth, gentle stop at any speed (my custom batteries are LiFePo4 which can take a lot of abuse if the regeneration is ever that much). I can’t get the hall sensors to work (I’ve tried wiring them in different configurations all to the same effect. If you get it right, lmk?) But they have no effect on the performance it would seem. Smooth. And quiet at low speeds, same at 19mph.
That is correct. I hope to but a 10s2p setup in this space as well.
Anyway, you can also see the placement of the thermal sensor in the photos (middle black blob).
If y’all want more pictures of either boards parts, let me know. I can’t open the damaged motor I have caused the grub screw is stuck, but I’m cutting the shaft soon.
Huh, very interesting. I may just try it out then. I just was going around a trail around here (perfectly flat, around a lake) and got ~11 miles before I had to leave, but if I remember correctly I got the low battery controller vibration around then, so I only get around ~12 miles total. I’m pretty light, so I’m a little surprised I don’t get a little more range.
Even if there’s a marginal improvement using the VESC and stock battery to bump up the range to their old 18 mile claim, it’d be worth it to me to perform the mod. Later down the line I might swap out the battery too but at least this would get me half way there for now.
Thanks for posting those photos, and I’ll let you know if I can get the hall sensors working. I’ve seen at least one person claim he was able to get it to work (on EndlessSphere), so it might be possible.
Yep, Jacob worked on these a while back and said that it just work with the VESC.
I ordered a spare cable for the Yuneec motor. They’re expensive (i paid like $36 shipping included for the pair) and I can send a JST set to you for $15. Are you in the USA or elsewhere?
That would be fantastic! Do you have an email address or something I can contact you at? As far as I can tell this forum doesn’t have any sort of PM functionality, but I might just be missing it…
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