Jelly!!! Mine’s still in China I think
Ye mane, thanks
My package hasn’t moved in a week, anyone seeing the same thing?
Yeah, I didn’t check it yet, but things from china take from 2 to 3 months to arrive here
Same thing
Depends
Sometimes, it arrives as if you’d order from Europe. Sometimes you forget you’re waiting for a package lol
Wish it was this way here, my record is 7 months on a hobby king battery
Hey guys, quick update but I’ve checked the voltage output on mine and it really does go from 35.5v up to 43.2v I’ll be aiming for final voltage of 41v so will see where we end up charging at 41.5v? Buuutt before I can do that does anyone know what female socket I need for this? Charging at 5amps I want to be sure I’m getting the right one.
Woah… is the postal system in Brazil so messed up?
How can that even happen… im glad u still receive the package in the end… though im not sure how it might get stuck for such long time…
I just got one from digikey shouldn’t be anything special, 5.5mm outer barrel and 2.5 inner? I have to check again. It’s 11mm long
OK great so no amp rating to watch out for.?
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/switchcraft-inc/L712AS/SC1390-ND/2238433 That’s what I got.
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That’s great thanks.
Just noticed that is only rated for 30v. Do you think that will be ok?
That’s fine. Voltage ratings are over the top.
Three voltage ratings are called out in the test reports:
- Breakdown Voltage: The failure voltage of the connector.
- DWV (75% of breakdown): The non-destructive voltage that the connector/cable should be tested at.
- Working Voltage (1/3 of DWV): The maximum continuous voltage that the product should be used at.
As you can see, the voltage rating is really a quarter of what would damage it
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This is what I love about the forum. Learning something new everyday.
Mine is supposed to arrive tomorrow!
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Just received mine, looks solid, unfortunately I will have to wait for my next build to use it
Until then I plan to replace the potentiometer with a 2 or 3 way micro switch and trace the circuit to make 2 current settings, I almost never need the full 5A, so maybe a 2,5 and a 5A switch
Couldn’t resist, looks pretty easy to mod and there is a lot of free space to add things like an arduino to make a charge level indicator
The shunt is really easy to identify and just need to replace with two of lower value and make one of them switchable
Any idea why this mess of resistir and what they could do in the circuit? Probably to increase the power dissipation
You mean you didn’t know you needed the full 5A. 