sick battery 
its nearly a shame to squeeze the current through that 100A BMS bottleneck! 
you need to be extremely careful with that voltage cutoff on the torqueboard escs - its not reliable and nearly cost me a battery. read here for my explanation: Landyachtz TopSpeed 90mm 10S4P DualRearDrive | Endless Sphere DIY EV Forum
Yea… it wasn’t cheap 36 cells at $9.30 each plus $20 for shipping. I originally was going 2p with 24 cells but bumped up to 3p so I ended up paying $40 shipping for 2 orders and $335 for cells.
Yes boosted version one uses 12 of these cells. I’m not sure what version 2 uses… people have said lipo but I’m not sure.
I mainly went with these cells for their cycle life. After calculating costs of building it myself, it made a lot more sense than investing in a space cell.
Holy crap that is a lot… but these are definitely the best cells to use for an electric skateboard.
I’m almost sure v2 is using an 18650 10S2P pack of some 2500mAh batteries. That would fit their 199Wh rating. Also Boosted despises Lipos since they were a failure on their first few concepts.
Nice. Personally, I was thinking of a a123 12s1p or 12s2p Samsung 25R pack. Can’t decide. Both fit on my board, just one has longer life span and one has a greater capacity. I’m just using this board for fun and small trips so it doesn’t really matter to me.
can u pm me ur gmail
Did you cover the battery with foam? and then used a heatshrink to wrap everything?
Yea I covered it with adhesive backed 3m black neoprene like foam, then heatshrinked around the bms and finally headshrinked the entire battery.
Awesome! where the hell did you find a heatshrink that big?
why the foam if i may ask? It seems like it would insulate heat.
They have bigger and smaller sizes also… I asked that it be left in one continuous piece when I ordered.
I have use this product and That shrink wrap will need a lot of heat and the rubber will keep that heat and transfer it to the battery pack. For you not to heat the battery too much, it will be good to place the pack on a damp wet towel, use you heat gun on the shrink wrap and turn the heated side of the pack on to the towel. That way the heat will be absorb by the water in the towel and not you new battery pack.
What’s the difference between using 10awg wire and nickel strips? Almost all of the diy battery packs are build with nickel strips. Also, is there a difference if you connect each individual cells of one parallel pack with each cell of the next pack or like you did, just connect the last cell with the first cell of the pack?
great build and should be an awesome long-life pack!
what was the overall length once wrapped? Simple math says it’s no less than 468mm/18.6in, but with the cell spacers maybe a bit more?
How is it running - any issues?
10 awg is if u dont wanna use nickel strip
The ampere rating between nickel strips (approx. 15A, depending on the nickel strip size) and awg10 wire (more than 55A continuous for silicon wires) is quite different, at least for the serial connections you might need something more than nickel strips.
Some tinned copper braid works well.
How would the 12s3p A123 range compare to a 10s3p made up of 2500mAh cells?
Yeah… It will also last a lot longer.
about the same 288wh vs 270wh, 12s3p has an extra 6 cells and the cells are bulkier.
If you’re talking about 18650 Li-Ion cells, then 1033,6V2,5Ah = 270Wh (compared to 3123,3V2,5Ah = 297Wh for 12S3P A123, so the range difference shouldn’t be too big; a 10% difference). However keep in mind that A123’s will last a longer (in terms of cycles) and can output more amps (and will probably have less voltage sag in this configuration) but it is a lot bulkier.
Can you show us what the end result was for the battery pack? Want to see how it looks with all of the connectors and charging port.