Are you going to solder those right to the 18650s? Those look pretty stout. How many amps are they rated for? I was Planning on reinforcing the serial connections with buss wire to carry more juice. Those braided cables could work pretty good as well. Plus they have a nice clean terminal connector on each side. Got a link for those things?
@Ulfberht thanks! Have you tried using this 12mm strip with 18650’s? Does the height of it increase the possibility of shorts?
8mm should be fine. Try to remember you are only bridging small gaps. The longer the span the more current carrying capacity you need.
1 Like
I doubt the 8mm will even get warm to the touch with a single layer, I could be wrong?
1 Like
I don’t understand, all depends on how much amps you like to get out of your pack no?
I as well found this one quite interesting too:
Sorry, it’s in french, my french is quite bad actually, but the pictures will do. I thought it is quite interesting how he did connect the P3 cells and how this guy seems to connect them to a two layer pack but then actually seems to fold it back to a single layer pack. This way he only has to strengthen some of the connections between the P3 cells too. (hope that makes sense 
)
1 Like
Yes you are correct but we are only asking the nickel strip to handle the current load over 1/2 inch span. One way to do a rough and dirty test would be to add a 1/2 inch segment to your power mains and go do some steep hillclimbs at max throttle. If it gets hot then it may need to be wider.
2 Likes
@treenutter I have not tried to spot weld these strips yet. They are still on order, but I’ll let you know what happens. My pack is going to be very close to Whitepony’s build here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=70435&start=75#p1166305 He uses quite large strip and gets a really nice result!! You gotta scroll down to the pics on that link. It looks like a very solid connection. Both electrically and mechanically speaking. I bought a few different strips from various vendors and not all of them are legit!! I got some from a Chinese vendor that were supposed to be pure nickel, but they were plated. I scratch up samples and soak it in a little bit of salt water too see if any red oxidization forms over a few hours. If so, it’s steel plated with nickel and shite. You can also hit them real quick with a grinder and if sparks come off, it’s steel.
2 Likes
How does the charger you have listed connect to the pack? Is there a plug on the BMS board or does it require something additional? I’m used to seeing balance plugs and a lipo charger but a charger with a simple single plug and no programming would be much more ideal!
It’s pretty much the same deal for 18650 with a BMS as for Lipo, but the main difference is that the balance leads are wired into the BMS, where on a lipo you would hook the leads up to your balance charger. The BMS only needs to have the power connector that matches your charger soldered on and BAM!!
1 Like
What size plug is this charger? If I’m understanding this right, I’d just have to buy a female of the same size and solder it onto the BMS to have an easy plug and charge setup?
Check this out. Testing three different strips from different vendors to find the perfect material. Here’s my results:
The first one on the left is what came free with my spot welder. The second one was ordered from an ebay vendor from China who assured me these were pure nickel. I did get my money back…The third was from a us vendor that also swore these to be legit. Very legit indeed!! http://www.ebay.com/itm/222080544462?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Also the most expensive of the three. Hence the small sample. Salt water speeds up the electrolytic process of corrosion, but imagine what could happen over time with these inferior materials rotting away on your sweet 25Rs or HE2s? Especially if you live in a super humid climate. Food for thought!
8 Likes
There’s no documentation for this 2A charger, but I’ve confirmed with the seller that the port is a DC5.5mmx2.1mm. I bought this one from mouser, but of course there are tons of them on ebay. For $2.50usd, I figure it’s worth it to get one that is a bit more robust.
Thanks again @Ulfberht I bought this nickel on your suggestion and it does seem much better than the stuff I had already.
1 Like
@treenutter I’m stoked that it was helpful. I really am all about building the best possible product, so it was important for me to get it right! Seeing those other strips turn into rust in a day was really eye opening for me. I know a few people are using the plated strips and with added reinforcement to the serial connections should work fine. However, I just know with current running through, it will only accelerate the corrosion process. Corrosion=extra resistance and heat. The strips that I finally went with are worlds apart in quality from the other two strips I bought. My sample piece sat in heavily saturated salt water for over a week with not as much as a color change in the metal. Bonus is that they are also fairly thick, which adds to the structural integrity of the pack. These are the same strips that Whitepony uses on his packs. Good luck with your pack build! I can’t wait to see what you cook up, my friend!! 
1 Like
what’s modified on the switch?
The one linked in your first post, doesn’t match the picture here, and i don’t see the e-switch feature in the list for it? Can you confirm which BMS that also has e-switch? Assuming this also handles anti-spark? Any trickle draw to be concerned about for storage w/o unplugging batteries?
Great thread man! will follow.
1 Like
It’s only the fuse holder to be able to replace the fuse. The rest remained original, especially the mouser components used.
1 Like