Hi.
I just wanted to share some things I learned having passed 20,000 miles on my “Master Evo”. I’d assume most of this is obvious. But if not, maybe one will help you get 20k off a build.
But I guess I should start with the failures.
-
I’ve had to replace 2 cell groups on my build in this time. The 7th split group at the nose. And the 1st group at the ground. Both were due to faulty BMS. Validate your pack every 1000 miles or so, even if everything is charging correctly.
-
I’ve been through three remotes, but the main thing is setting your failsafe so your board doesn’t run away, or have a mind of its own.
-
Had Metr, old Bluetooth devices stopped working with newer Android, switched to DaveGa X. First failed in a few miles, second had the white screen of doom. I solved the white screen by adding about 1farad of capacitance to power input from focbox 1.6
-
Bearings, be religious about cleaning them, and you’ll never have a wheel walk away.
-
Motors, I have had the same torqueboard 6374 190kv for the entire time. I have replaced the bearings twice, and on the second replacement at 15k miles, I finally battle hardened the bell housing. Just do that from the get go…
-
Belts… man belts suck. They are quiet but you can chew through belts and press-ins pretty quickly and the wheels can become bound. Boo open drive systems.
I guess the not failed:
-
truck hardware, king pins, and shoulder bolt axles. Welp, I’ve not had failures. But I’ve replaced these screws and bolts regularly over the years. Preventatively as…well they’re kinda important and metal fatigues.
-
focbox 1.6. these are run in canbus, with a hoyt puck. Always hot glue your connectors together and tape them in. They have been at +50A battery -15battery +120a motor -40a motor for years on ack 3.100 on 13S @40khz sensorless FOC. Never had a single issue
-
I’ve had torqueboard belt drives, 3dservisas prototype gears, and now all aluminum janux gears for surfrodz. I’ve tried Super Lube food grade oil compatible with plastics, as well good old Lucas White Lithium. I’ve done a full silicon gasket to seal the drives, and not used silicone. But the best combo that has resulted in long lasting clean gear drives is silicone sealed mating surface, and white lithium. Oil seems to break down with heat.
-
most people used to seem to hate abec 107s because they chunk. But my wheels have almost 24k miles on them as they were on a previous build. Super glue on splits has been great wheel maintenance for me. My wheels are still whole.
-
I mentioned cleaning bearings in failures up there^ but if you have a gear drive, you can remove most of the buna seals so that the inner bearings all have access to the gear box lubricant, leaving you with just the wheel bearings to maintain.
-
Vibrations this board has never had any as I lined the enclosure with neoprene foam, and lined the top of everything with it as well. Components are locked in place when the enclosure is tightened down. The D shaped gasket lining the edge of the enclosure also helps prevent the screws from backing out, and an added bonus of keeping dust and water out.
-
road dust… Is mostly metallic, I can’t stress enough that proper sealing from road dust will keep your electronics going for miles.
-
power switch, or lack there of. I’ve had the same As150 since the build was finished. Probably the best, cheapest switch I could have asked for. And I can’t loose it. Can’t recommend as150 enough.
-
spread your bullet connectors often. Over time they close and become a weak connection. Just do it when you check your battery every 1000 or so.
Anyways, Hope y’all’s boards last forever.
Bye.
