Ahh interesting, somehow I’d been following this thread for a while, without even noticing there was another one out there!
I think of this thread as a place for posting final designs and not requests. Requests means there will be a lot of back and forth and people loose the ability of scrolling through 3D printables for esk8 uinterrupted and choosing what they like.
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Makes sense! I won’t bother uploading my battery/enclosure up on that thread, as what I’m using right now is very much a version 1.0. Have figured out a much better mounting rail design for the NESE modules now, but it also requires re-printing all 5 NESE’s so I am planning to put that off until AFTER I actually get my board assembled and testing/working lol. Once I know all the components actually work properly, I can then tinker away.
I’ll keep an eye out on that thread too then 
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I didn’t even see that thread…
Oh no no, I didn’t mean it like that. I was just saying what made sense to me. It was not mentioned or discussed anywhere, so how could anyone know.
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Tail Bone
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Oh cool. Ill check that out
Ooh, whats this?
I like the idea of having it in the riser. I would definitely take @mmaner advice and have it come out the back or front depending on if your motors are going to be by it. And Do like @skelstar idea with the 45 degree ring for easy removal. Depending on the deck if you are using a drop through I have seen a mount that uses the drop through hole as a way to kind of hide the loop key.
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Heres a 36t wheel pulley i remixed for the TB110mm wheel.
Theres a 12mm belt and 15mm belt option. Havnt officially ridden with this revision yet because my motor let out a puff of smoke before the group ride, but should work perfect. Use a flanged bearing in the center, F608 bearings for 8mm axels and F6900 bearings for 10mm axels.
Im getting blobs and accumulation of fillament on the Nozzle when printing PETG. Doing a bit a research but PETG is soposed to be easy to print but ive found it much harder get a clean print compared to PLA. The prints generally come out okay but theres always blobs on the print to clean up.
- Use a silicone sock.
- Smear a layer of silicone sealant on the nozzle.
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I do have a silicone sock but i will try thar silicone on the nozzle method it sounds like it may work.
Anyone has the STL of a DKP baseplate damper/ stabilizer? The one that restricts how my dkp can turn so it would be more stable at high speed.
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Hello,
Need a focbox stl (just the PCB without stock enclosure) to design a new dual enclosure.
much thanks
Seems that off the side works really well since its only single drive.
Is PLA enough to support a riser pad @mmaner mabye?
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Maybe, pla is not a structurally robust medium when compared to other filaments like abs. Some folks have had good luck with it though.
Just a little side note here. I’ve been making a lot of parts with PLA+ lately and they all hold up great. It prints at a slightly higher temp than regular pla and it acts more like PETG - able to bend a bit more and more dense feeling
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