does anyone have some CAD files of pulleys for their drivetrain? im experimenting with as many 3d printed parts i can use. Thanks in advance
Search is your friend…
what type of filament your using because I can tell you PLA OR ABS even PTEG won’t survive. Better to buy it.
That’s surprising. I use PETG and they last a very long time. I have since switched to nylon and I haven’t seen any signs of wear for about 50 miles.
that’s what i read when i came across 3d printing thread. specially 3d printing motor mount.
all my printed pulleys disintegrated after 3 months
I’ve printed a ton of pulleys with ABS with 100% infill, I have a board with a printed pulley that has 150 miles on it and it doesn’t even show wear.
1 Like
i heard doing a 100% infill with ABS would work fine.
1 Like
Anybody print with resin/laser? I’ve got a XYZ Nobel 1, haven’t printed anything meant to undergo strain so I’m curious.
microsoft has 3d builder. You can load your file there and I believe you can order them to be printed.
I have some risers printed with 50% infill with ABS and they’re fine, at 100% it is a solid brick of ABS so unless you crack it chances for deforming it are pretty low. I could see the teeth wearing down for sure on a drive train over time since the teeth on my belts get chewed up over time by the metal pulleys but otherwise should work fine. If you have an extruder that can push Nylon it would be pretty ideal for pulleys I imagine (I might try this just for the hell of it since I have some taulman 645 sitting around and am curious).
@trancejunkiexxl how exactly were they breaking? I wonder if it was just too low a temperature and the layers didn’t have good adhesion or if it broke down some other way?
mine are sintered nylon from Shapeways and i have a set i’ve been riding around on for about a year. They even survived a mount coming loose.
3d printed pulleys are just about getting the right print and material. 3d printed nylon is probably the best thing next to sintered or injection molded nylon if i had to guess. As long as the fill is 100%
seems like it was lateral seperation of the bonding layers =(
i cant stress the 100% infill enough! my taulman 910 alloy with 50% infill started spinning arround the motor shaft after my first uphill tour. and that one has a D shape grinded into it. havent realy tested my 100% infill one yet but the PETG ones are holding up realy fine.
btw
motor pully whise, this is probably the only thing you ever need.
1 Like
Now, do I buy a 3D printer or source a pulley on 3d hubs? Hmmmm … 
now I’ll jump into 3D printer choice rabbit hole… see you in a week 
you do not want to use 3d printed motor pulleys. I wouldn’t even use kevlar reinforced injection molded nylon motor pulleys.
Even aluminum motor pulleys wear out relatively quickly. Steel motor pulleys are really the only good option.
but for wheel pulleys, nylon is plenty.
I usually use 60 - 80% infill with bolt-on wheel pulleys, no matter what material I am printing with. If I am printing an Evlove or Enertion type wheel pulley I use 100% infill, and usually use nylon.
Just want to point out that sintered Nylon is not as strong as FDM Nylon. but is not as strong as INJ Nylon.
For 99% of use cases with printed parts for esk8ing, PETG is the best, followed by Nylon. mostly down to the hygroscopic tendancy of NY. but also because of ease of printing.
my build has a 3d printed spur gear and I’ve had no troubles so far. made it out of petg not pla. enclosures are also made out of petg. the battery one needs some work and strength to volume optimization but the electronics one works great