But my mount is made of aluminum, just the clamp rings is missing, to I tought of printing them
clamp ring like adapter from circle to square truck mount??
yeah that will work! PETG or ABS schouldnt realy matter. just dont use PLA 
Oi 
I just printed the same piece for my mount, i would be interested in following the outcome of your project
It should probably be ok, most materials fail due to traction, be it by pulling or bending, in this case the material will be confined and subject to shear and compression, and 3d printed pieces can deal very well with that since it doesnāt force layer separation
If your friend donāt have ABS give me a shout, I think shipping will be pretty inexpensive, 3D hubs is another way, lots of people with printers
Oi, Brazilian too? Nice to see some in this forum, I have a post of my build, but I have to refresh it
@Pedrodemio Shipping from your house to mine? In Brazil a 20 meters shipping is 30 reais
I have a 3D printed clamp ring part with Aliens Mounts.
Theyāre currently holding up well, plus I drilled into them to stop the motor slipping down before I used Loctite on everything.
Also trialing 3D printed 6" hubs, which are also holding up well.
@fottaz how long have you had the xtcf20 motor mounts? Never heard of carbon fibre filament, but now Iām just plain excited, whereās the build thread for em?
That what I was looking, do you have the stl files yet? I made one Design but it was pretty simple. And how do you printed them?
I wonder if Tom @Idea did not use PETG for its first attachment rings on his mountain board motor mount. He could give you a feedback. He subsequently changed them to aluminum.
Nobody is talking about nylon here (this thread), whats your guys opinion on that?
Nylon would be the best option, but itās very expensive
Letās see, I think Petg would work fine with 100% infill
I love NYLON It is pricey but it is incredibly strong tooā¦ only down side is the water absorption of the material makes it a pain and need to get the retraction settings and everything dialed in (also warping). Once you have it up and running well printing with Nylon makes super durable parts (again delamination is still the weakest link, but in the direction of the print or for compression forces or tensile strengthā¦ canāt beat it in 3D printing so far as Iāve seen).
Long story short Nylon huge pain to work with absolutely amazing when it works. Really good for small parts like gears or pulleys but like others said there are cheaper alternatives. Most of the ABS and PLA I get is around $20-30 per kg the Nylon is close to twice that, but for small parts you only use an ounce or so of material so like $50 a kg is about $1.30 per ounce.
I got some of the NinjaFlex TPU, some other TPU, and some Nylon 645 (somewhat flexible) I should have gone with the 12xx series for less water absorption but just going to put my filament in a container with desiccant to keep it dry.
I also have taulman 645, the first few prints were crap until i found out i could dry it in my oven. 60 degrees C for 6-8 hours and it comes out perfect and teady to print. I printed a 40t pulley that fits like a dream.