After over 1 month of delivery time (+ Corona/customs) they arrived.
This offer is legit and I recommend everyone to buy their 48V’s batteries from here, especially for 48V use (modding) in their max.
OP even delivered from North America to Germany, but the s&h will cost 60 USD for buyers from Europe or far, who have interest buying these.
I’d like to recommend to you buyers to buy 3 if possible, because they surely will fit, no cap.
I installed two of them inside my max, works just fine, charging unit needs to be removed and the controller needs to be moved behind to the very last screw hole, then the bats will fit.
Thank you very much for your efforts @batsnbikes !
And no, I’m not a fake buyer, check scooterhacking’s discord .
For everyone letting this passing by I just can say, that you’re missing a great offer and that you’re letting this opportunity passing by.
This isn’t fake.
Just buy it, pre-pay the PayPal buyer protection fee’s yourself and you’ll be glad that you’ve bought this.
PS: Batteries even came pre-charged, thanks for that.
I’d be glad to buy one from you because the only other place I can really find them on is on eBay and they go for twice the cost or even more there. Also, if you knew any information on what kind of connectors this thing has both the charger and the plug that looks like it’s meant to slide into. I remember seeing this being a battery for some kind of scooter but I don’t remember exactly what. If there was an official datasheet for it that would be very helpful. I’d really like one of these because I already have one of these myself I got awhile back and I’d love to put 2 into parallel to be able to output more power to my bike and to have more capacity. I can pay with PayPal if that works for you. With my other battery I just soldered an XLR connector to the charge wires (thinner ones) since the charger I bought was for XLR and soldered the battery connector for my eBike controller box onto the wires on the other end. I’ll probably do the same thing with the other one and use an XLR splitter to connect to both batteries and hook the discharge wires in parallel.
I think the guy was selling them as recycle packs. Couldn’t tell you if there’s any left or not. I have some 21700 from a tesla if you’re looking for used cells.
Oh I see so you don’t know anything about the connectors. That’s alright I found just soldering the wires worked fine for me. Do you not have any of them left? I prefer the 18650 cells because they’re easier to find cases and cell aligners for like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/36v-Li-ion-Battery-Hailong2-Case-Electric-Bike-Ebike-Kit-USB-Switch-Cell-Holder/282591928049?hash=item41cbca9ef1:g:QFQAAOSws0pcIoGu but I mean it would be cool to use Tesla cells especially if I can get them for a good price. I’d still need a BMS but I could probably use the one from my current 48v pack. Do you know what model its from? And how many do you have?
Oh yeah I forgot those things have close to 3000 cells or so. Ideally I want to build a pack with cells with similar health so I’d probably get more than I need and test and see which ones have the best capacity. Was this battery pulled because some of them stopped working or was it just because lower capacity? Hopefully since my eBike would pull a max of 1000w or 2000w if I upgraded the controller box, the cells themselves would perform well because they’re meant for high power discharge so they’d retain longer life when used for something like this. If you knew what capacity they were that would be nice because the batteries range from 50-82kwh in total and I’m not sure what this one was specifically pulled from but I’m guessing looking at the datasheets for 21700 cells that these would be the pretty high capacity ones.
Yep. The high cap high discharge ones for sure. And it was a brand new Tesla model 3 I rented out and got the insurance. Enterprise is pissed off about it. Fuckers gave it to me out of gas too.
I didn’t really rob a rental car. Some people and I just happen to come across a few whole modules. I’m thinking each one had a bad ppack. I think they are 100s100p 422 volts or whatever fucki if I know. I know they don’t weld for shit.
Oh yeah a single bad cell can screw everything up because a cell directly connected to others of different capacity will cause backwards charging which damages those cells so unless the BMS is hooked up to every cell, it can kill an entire row of cells. But honestly, this is pretty awesome because those things are even better than the notoriously elusive 3600mah 18650 cells so I’ll definitely get some of these. I think I’ll get 100 cells since I’ve calculated that I’ll need 91 total (possibly 94) to fit inside this battery case and it was also be good to have a few backups just in case. I’m planning on using a case with inside dimensions of 385x110x76mm and it comes with a BMS and power connectors so I should be able to fit these things in there vertically and use the most space. I’m also going to use a honeycomb holder for the cells as well and they aren’t too thick so they should still allow the cells to fit.
