Mailing wheels can be more costly than you expect 
umm, I think a standard ruler would work. Let me draw up something at work tomorrow with what dimensions it will require since the hardest part is the mating portion which is already done.
Iāll post it openly incase anyone does have a caliper and can help with getting accurate information.
That sounds great. Thanks!
@Genex and I are having our own private discussion about his prints but just wanted to confirm for the rest of you the STL files are fine. I printed the pulley portions from the 44T file just to see if I could replicate the results that were brought forward which were issues with the teeth , but I didnāt have issues. Hereās the tooth profiles, printed with a .5mm nozzle at .2mm layer height, outerwalls at 25mm/s, inner walls at 35mm/s and infill at 55mm/s.
So I just got home and wanted to check how well the teeth mesh with the HTD5 belts and the answer is perfectly 
A little off topic: What are the best settings for PETG? First time iām using it. Usually I use abs. The first print I did of the 40t one side was very warped.
Usually around 235-240 extruder temp, bed temp is basically as hot as you can make it. If you are printing a larger piece you are going to need it as hot as you can get. Smaller parts you can suffice with around 80C, but bigger parts require a lot of heat to prevent the warping you are seeing.
If you canāt get good bed adhesion you can use hairspray in a thin film on the platform to help.
Do NOT use your cooling fan, just like with ABS.
If you are having problems with adhesion on the 40T I would try laying a pretty decent layer of hairspray where it is going to be printed, specifically around the edges. Apply it when the bed is cool
As for speed, you arenāt going to want to print as fast as you do with ABS/PLA. Slow it down a bit. Not as much as you would with TPU (flexibles) but slower than abs/pla
Here is a video of a guy printing petg with a bed temp of 45, which imo is low, but it seems to work for him. He shows his settings at about 2:30. He is using blue tape, so if you donāt have any kind of bed adhesion tools like buildtak or kapton tape, use some blue painters tape and level the bed. Offers a pretty good adhesion layer, especially better than glass or aluminum.
We print at 240 and heated bed at 80 for small prints and 100-115 for large (10"*10") prints. We also print onto Kapton tape. Only time weāve had warping issues is one time I meant to set the print bed to 100 and did 10 instead.
Hmm. It seems that the deforming is happening towards the rear, center of the print bed. I changed the print position and it did a little better. Maybe print bed too hot? Thanks guys.
I canāt imagine the print bed being too hot as being a problem. What do you print onto on your build platform?
I agree. The hotter the better in this case almost.
So, it appears turning the bed temp down to 75 is working. Plus, I think the bed was a little crooked.
Alright, let us know how it turned out! And for everyone elseās benefit the print settings you used for the PETG!
The mating portion of the pulleys was only available in one stud thickness, because again that portion is not my design. The original pulley was labeled thick which I understand to mean for the thick version of the hub. So all the pulleys will fit thick hubbed clones and from my understanding Abec flywheels as well because those are thin hubbed so thereās more room in between the spokes.
The Retainer. It came as a thin or thick option. Now, I donāt know if that still reference to the fitment relative to the hub spokes or the thickness of the Retainer itself. The Thick Retainer is actually thicker than the thin Retainer, in terms of the thickness of the ring the bolts would rest on. But the Retainer I did not remodel but did confirm that the Retainer studs are equivalent to the same size as the pulleyāso studs as well.
Why they would name the thickness of the Retainer in the same way you differentiate between spoke fitment Iām not certain but thatās how the original one was so I figured there was some logic to it and left it the same way.
umm iāve used the old version before and it had both versions of the pulleys and retainers.
notice the thick and thin retainers have the holes on opposite sides.
iām about half way on a print right now of your 42t pulley. if it doesnāt fit my clones maybe iāll just send it to someone who can use itā¦ its just pla. 4 wall .15 infill
@saul Holy shit youāre right! I open the 36T ones and both of those are just thick. The 44T has a thick AND a thin. I didnāt look that closely at the 44 after the 36 since I happened to have opened both the thick 44 version as well. Okay. So then a āThinā version of these pulleys will be available for download for all sized by end of next week then. Iād do it this week but Iāve booked vacation and wonāt be able to come in over the weekend to do it so youāre gonna have to wait a few extra days.
sounds good, iām just trying these out for the next build and still have the original versions to use.
I printed the 42t 12mm and it does fit, but the screws end up near the middle of the holes, probably not stable.
Also I noticed you added 1mm or so gap on the inside of the pulley, plus the flange 2mm ishā¦ this might be a problem with 12/15mm setups, I had no space to spare with 15mm so that extra mm would push out too much.
iāll post some pictures later
Okay yes please for the pictures. The pulleys a reference than the 40 do have an extra mm in flange because the teeth were larger than the mating hub portion. If that can be removed and pushed back then thatās something that can be adjusted, again modeled these without any real dimensions for the wheel itself, just modifying the file so 42-50 are untested on these. Once you upload pictures I can correct the issues on these thick versions and avoid the issue on the thin versions next week once I start them
getting that close without the actual wheel is pretty amazingā¦
Oh and also theres seems to be a hole in the stl that makes the outter flange not print correctly. that cylinder is probably right against the face of the pulley, making them overlap slighly usally fixes this.
Here are the pics Printed Pulleys v1
yours is the dark purple, in pla for testingā¦
aluminum, tpe, petg, pla 40t, pla 42t
heres the gap iām talking about. the curve section and flange should give enough spacingā¦, but the extra inset could be usful on 107mm.
I see what youre saying about the gap. The flange that is recessed into the teeth itself is 1.5mm so it looked like i could pull that back 1.5-2.0 mm without major concerns. That should be an easy fix. Howās the fitment otherwise? The sit flush up against the core? Does this thick version fit well in the hub? Any other discrepancies apart from that gap?
Can you take a picture of the hole in the STL thing? I wasnāt quite sure what that means. With regards to the 107 Iām going to be making a 107 specific variant of three pulleys so we can use them with no inserts or shims. Just a one piece print. Is there 107 clones out there too or just the genuine Abec 11 flywheels?
Just the ABEC 107mm, no clones I have come across and I looked. Only thing close was the MBS 100mm all-terrain wheels, which would be next in my list btw lol!
