“ANKLE SNAPPER 2000” - Redemberboards Shuggah #001 - 100mm MBS wheels/6 inch pneumatic HYBRID - 10s - 192kv Sk3

The one to rule them all - after my last build with 99wh batteries meant for air travel was quite weak, it left me with a hunger for more, so now I’m going all out. Normally I’d be on quite a strict budget, but recently I took on a new weekend job so $$ shouldn’t be as much of a concern. Ideally this will be my last board for a long time, my daily driver and one that I can take to college so I am sparing nothing here. Starting off - I’m using the very first deck that I got off a cheap build on amazon. The brand is “White Wave”, sorta generic, but for $40 it somehow manages to still be the most comfortable thing I’ve ridden.

Here’s the parts list so far: -100mm green MBS wheels -@Treenutter custom drop-deck -Caliber II clone trucks -192Kv SK3 -Torqueboards mount and 16/36 gears

Still to get: -12s (ideally 5p) battery (Samsung 30Q cells? so 15,000 mah) - -enclosure - probably something stealthy from @psychotiller -ESC - 12s esc? VESC? Idk…

A few pictures to start off:

I 3d printed a modified version of @FLATLINEcustoms topmount covers to fit the first deck and they look fantastic after a bit of sanding and light dremel work. Blue and green don’t exactly match, but I can always paint it later. Definitely props to him for designing such ingenious plugs, although it’ll be interesting trying to get LED’s/Loop key working on one side while the voltage meter is doing its thing on the other side… anyone know how long wires should get before heat issues?

EDIT: Deck has been changed to an @Treenutter custom drop-deck. Should be better than the flexy one I was planning to use previously


Throw some yellow grip on it and you can say the top mount covers and grip made baby wheels :grinning:


She’s a beauty!

About the cells, rumors has it that 30Q’s are the way to go.

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thats a ridiculously large battery. back then i made a 10S6P battery for my evolve carbon, giving me 50km range on pneumatics, ie close to 100km on sk8wheels. you just cant ride that long!

the perfect size imo is around 40cells with skatewheels. gives you 30-50km range depending on throttle.

if you still want to go for that monster: with so many cells you can easily use the cheaper sanyo ga for even more capacity!


@whitepony @Namasaki @Titoxd10001 My reasoning for the crazy battery is that I have had really small batteries in the past and been disappointed with the range and speed at times. With my new system on this board since it’s really stable I figured SPEED is #1 priority (looking ~35mph), closely followed by a range of 25-30 miles. I don’t know exactly what battery would get me that but my SK3 has been good with about 90% efficiency in the past. What configuration/cells would you recommend for something that gets me this? This is also looking to be my first time building a battery, however I do have some friends who specialize in this area to help me with the process

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It depends a lot on riding style I would say, also rider weight and gearing. I have similar setup with MBS wheels, 190kv motors, 15/40 gearing, but with 11s4p 25r cells I get about 16 mile range before I feel the low voltage kicking in. I’m a heavier rider and drive pretty aggressively though. I would probably go with 12s5p with 30q cells next time for 20+ mile range and less stress on individual cells. A big con of a bigger battery of course is weight.

@anorak234 what kind of range you looking for?

I would say go with 12s5p with 30q cells. That’s already a heavy battery but 8p is way too much. How do you plan to make the battery flexible?

I know the deck is a challenge - but I just love this thing. It’s the most comfortable ride ever, even compared to my friend’s vanguard. For the flexible battery, I was thinking maybe I could spot weld all of the parallel groups, and then use 3d printed sleds and solder the groups in series with flexible wire and add the balancing cables. Something like @Ackmaniac’s build

And here’s my diagram (blue is balancing cable) and the file I designed for the 18650 sleds:

To save space, the packs would be built so that it’s all in 2 layers

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Flex test on the deck… let me know if you guys think this is doable

Anyone? The flex doesn’t seem too bad to me looking at the video, however I think I might split it if it doesn’t seem safe

It seems too flexy, you might split your enclosure for this set up. I had about the same flex as yours. I ended up adding 2 layers of GF 200g/m2 on top of the board and 2 layers 200g/m2 unidirectional CF, and 4 layers of Twill weave 200g/m2 CF on bottom of the board. It’s 2 layers of GF and 6 layers of CF in total. Only now it seems stiff enough. I’m 93kg.

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I have been riding the exact same deck and was originally running a one piece enclosure with no problems. Put your feet in their riding location and see how much the board flexes by jumping but not letting your feet leave the board… sounds kinda crazy but this is far more accurate in relation to ride flex versus using it like a trampoline.

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I’m looking at possibly getting one of @treenutter’s decks - those things are looking fantastic so we’ll see what I can do with that

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If you scrap the white wave idea give me a pm with a price for it.

Ok so to solve the problem of flex I decided to purchase an @Treenutter custom deck. Thanks for the offer @flywithgriff but I think I’m going to keep my white wave deck, as it’s the first one I ever owned. Also wondering… since my 12s ESC never arrived, I’m thinking of maybe getting a VESC which I’ve never tried out before due to the high price and rate of failure. How well would a VESC hold up in BDLC with my 190kv motor + 100mm wheels + 16:36 ratio?

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VESC is the way to go. And if this is your end all board, why not go dual drive? I’m running dual drive 12s4p with VESCs in BLDC and it’s beastly. You sure you’re going to have clearance to stack your battery? I’m using a Never Summer double drop and I had to bottom-mount my trucks to get clearance just for my single-layer battery. (PS my deck is about as flexy as your first one looked and I built my battery in sections like you were talking about, works perfect). With wheels that big, you’re looking at a 35mph top speed on 12s. I’d drop your motor pulley down to like 14 teeth for more torque, especially if you’re sticking with single drive.

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@t0m_r1dd1e thanks for the suggestions! My reasoning for 1 wheel drive is that the system I have has been flawless from the beginning with my 6374, and I won’t be climbing many hills. Also, if I do drop the pulley down to 14t how much of a difference does that make with the reliability of the VESC? This thing should be a speed demon… I’m hoping to max out unless it’s bad for whatever ESC I use.

Running a smaller motor pulley will mean that it will take less amps to get the same amount of acceleration, so it would be better for the VESC I guess. I wouldn’t worry about reliability too much though. I haven’t really heard of VESCs randomly dying in BLDC mode. I haven’t had any issues with two of them after 400 or so miles. I have my ERPM limit set to 58000, so no chance of over-driving frying my DRV chip.

Also, check out this calculator if you haven’t seen it. Super useful: http://calc.esk8.it/

I’ve seen the calculator - the problem I found with it is that it calculates using nominal voltage, not charged voltage. With my current plan the calculator shows 57K in max ERPMs, however I know realistically it will be more than that. Correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe the VESC can only handle 60K? You mentioned that you could limit ERPM on the VESC, is that something where if I’m bombing a hill it will be able to handle automatically?

Exactly. It will apply brakes (gently) so you don’t go over whatever limit you set.