Maybe you could make the lid of carbon fibre to help with some strength and even put more carbon fibre around the bottom of the deck
I have some ideas how to add some layers and I’ll test that. Aluminium lid is much cheaper and avaiable for me. Another thing it can be used to do some heat transfer from inside.
Yes that would work very well for heat transfer although how do you plan to remove it if things are using it for a heat sink?
ESC and BMS… Fixed with screws and with some longer wires to be able to open the lid and disconect them or unscrew. I assume that once build is done there won’t be a need to do it often.
Sounds good just make sure you have enough room for the tangle of wires to sit
1 Like
Love your new project! Looking forward to Se how it goes along! Is it done in CAD? Any chance you can share your prints/design? If I do a new build I would want to try something like this 
Thank you.
It’s done in Solidworks. At the moment I’m testing a program for CNC machine. Also I know I will have to make my own plywood with fibre glass sheets to have required strenght. If everything goes as planed I should have a prototype first half of Jan. Ihope it turns out awsome and I’ll be able to produce more 
3 Likes
Ok… I have manage to make this.
Now I have to mill middle section and it should look like this…
What do you think?
20 Likes
Real life pictures look much better than the model (sketches). Like I’m impressed!
Interested to see how you tackle the integrated compartment!
3 Likes
Thanks! 
The compartment is just a straight mill so shouldn’t be a problem. So far everything looks ok.
Only thing that I’m worried about is the weight. It’s quite heavy now but I’ll remove a lot of material. Planing to make a top cover from 3mm aluminium to is not light so a lot of thins to resolve but getting there step by step
Any one can tell me how much a 32 inch deck with enclosure weight?
1 Like
How did you make it? CNC or by hand?
All done by CNC. Quite long process but if I want to make more than one it’s the only way.
1 Like
Looks awesome, I think a layer of carbon fibre could be helpful in terms of extra strength
1 Like
Needs some pockets for your foot to stay locked in.
1 Like
there are lots of variations the hi5ber yellow jacket uses some rocker (front to back curve) and some concave (side to side curve) to make a front and back “pocket” you can wedge your foot in to so it will not slip.
look up popular DH decks to get more ideas on the variations that wheel flares and gas pedals or W can add to the above.
truncated tesseract adds “w” and wheel flares https://loadedboards.com/html5video/truncated.webm
rayne fortune v3 has a double flare to push your toe in to… get creative or use the basics? all the landmarks also help you know where your feet are by feel
3 Likes
Thank you @Cobber!!! That od what i need and not many people are giving advice here. Maybe integrated deck is not a big deal after all. To incorporate your tips I need to change shape. I think I’ll try to do two different ones
1 Like
Hey Luke, This looks really clean and perfectly done. hope to could help you a bit here… link to my integrated deck According to PB and Cobber advices, I did some big pocket too, but way too much ! haha got to eliminate them just a bit after. And its a bit embarrassing when youre not used to it and they’re too uncomfortable (when too strong imo).
Good continuation
1 Like