also what brand of dye did you use?
I also used Ritt dye (powder form), i also dyed the urethane from Hummie’s hubmotors and they ended up completely black after 10min or so. The kegels don’t seem to soak up the dye that well unfortunately. I stopped trying, and will probably just buy some black Evolve G.T. wheels if the kegels ever wear-out.
@themegak last night i decided to give them another attempt. i left them in the pot for around 3 hours, playing around with the heat and always stirring. I got the to a very dark purple so i decided to leave them overnight. When i checked them this morning they turned out very very dark drown, almost black i am pretty happy with the result and this was using half a bottle of dye at a time and i added salt on the second attempt. On my next wheels i will use a full bottle and a salt and see how they go. i may also leave them over night.
Its more into doing it over and over instead of very harsh in one go. It takes a very long time for the dye to penetrate. Ofc the more concentrated the faster it reaches inside, but you also want to do it over and over so they all are uniformed.
When they reach about dark brown, once it hit the aspath, it will turn greyish to black. So thats not that bad afterall.
can i use the same dyed water in the pot? or would i need to make a new dye bath?
Hey Raf, awesome job! Since the Enertion Black Kegel Wheels are coming out soon and the evolve gt wheels are black I guess I would buy those instead of dying. Good luck with the other wheel!
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I would’ve bought them but I already have the pulleys and inserts for the kegels
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Now that the wheel has dried off, I think the dye has set it because it is now black.
I have now removed the graphic, but it is still very faint in purple underneath where the graphic was as the dye most of not reached it. This isn’t a big problem as I can just dye this section and it shouldn’t take too long.
I have removed the graphics on the other wheels too. if you guys are going to dye your wheels and don’t want the graphics in the final product, remove the graphic before dyeing
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Oh. My. God.
i’ve got to try this. I didn’t know this could even be done. This is why i love this forum.
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I am going to paint the middle gold to fit my theme. I must warn you though orangatang kegels take a huge amount of time to dye. If you need any help or have any question feel free to ask. I am still trying to perfect a method of getting them done as quick as possible with a high quality result
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i’ll bet it has to do with thier high quality urethane. It’s probably not as porous as cheaper wheels. Those wheels feel kind of soft but damn are they tough.
yeah they really are, they’re very heat resistant too so putting them in a pot of hot water isn’t too much of a worry, as long as they’re not in direct contacts with the heat
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how deep do you think the dye penetrates?
it depends on the wheels, on softer/cheeper wheels i would say all the way through but on tougher wheels such as orangatang kegels i would say around a few mm. This is just a prediction. I dyed the wheel then removed the decal and under the decal it was still very very dark so i would say it penetrates quite a few mm.
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ok nice man they turned out great, it would be a good option for people that have ocd and are using Hummies hubs with dark purple urethane hahaahahah
hahaha i love the kegels but wanted it to fit my theme of black and gold so this was my solution, i still need to paint the core gold. Gonna go with a metallic/chrome gold look. I will update this post when they’re done and also a better method for dying kegels
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Wow! that cutsomisation to the next level ahahhah
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Ive tested (grind test) the dye of 3 hours at almost boiling point (I think boiling point) with kegel clone 90mm Rit dye black powder it coats it around 3 - 4mm. 4mm already having in between shades.
I guess kegel is abit softer so the dye penetrates better with the liquid Rit Dye. I would like to try this too.
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im not sure how deep mine penetrated, i left it in over night but i think it would probably be about the same or around 5-6mm