Necroposting is replying to old dead threads bringing them back to the top. 
I think walls block drafts and that can help maintain temperatures perhaps even better than a roof.
What a pain 3d printing is. I spent like 5 hours figuring out 1st layer for petg again ā for some reason my z height shifted about .2mm but not for all filament types. This is just to print a truck riser pad.Running a prusa so itās supposedly one of the easier ones. Sometimes I feel Iāve been enslaved by the thing.
I use a CR-10 now and itās been great, printed a 700mm enclosure. Will take pictures soonā¦ but before that I had monoprice and hictop printers that were great also.
Been 3D printing cases for a while now. Print most cases in PLA. They are usually like 20+ hr prints so PLA is pretty much a sure thing that itās not going to fail. Just monitor the first few layers.
Everything else I print with PETG. This is risers, gears, washers, and anything that takes less than 8 hour.
Used to print in ABS but the smell was pretty intense since I print indoors. Slurry is the only thing that keeps those prints down.
Microcenter has very good prices on filaments and they havenāt failed me yet
Also I use Simplify3D or Cura as my slicer.
Does the CR-10 do auto/mesh bed leveling (where it probes around the bed before starting the print?) Iāve heard some of them (maybe was just early run of them) had some issues with the borosilicate glass being warped a bit. Have been using a prusa i3 (v1) based kit for a few years and itās still been good to me but would be nice to have that extra build volume and the CR-10 seems reasonably priced. Iām a bit hesitant since I heard about the warped bed thing and a buddy of mine bought another creality one (the ENDER) and has been nothing but trouble (controller board is not programmed and flashing over ICSP says it worked but then acts crazy like the clock rate is wrong or something).
PLA is definitely like cheat codes. Butā¦ Do the enclosures hold up? Under mechanical/heat stress, and under UV exposure? Do you do anything to reinforce them?
Iām using a PLA one right now, Iāve had it since Oct 2017 and havenāt had major issues with it. I did design it poorly with regard to some places where it is under stress from making the batteries removable so those parts cracked but in general it has held up surprisingly well. Originally I had planned to make a mold from the PLA print then pour resin into the mold to make solid plastic parts but after realizing how much silicone that was going to take and what a pain it would be to make the thin walls I decided screw it Iāll use the original. I added some filler used for rusty spots on cars to help smooth out the print and maybe added some strength but probably not much and added some white gloss spray paint on top of that to make it look nicer.
What deck is that?
Since this thread has been revived: 
I sold my printrbot a couple months ago and bought a CR-10S, and a Prusa MK3. The CR-10s has been flawless. Cr-10s is a great printer for the money, and itās almost an unbeatable value. They Creality Ender-3 also came out recently, its under $200, and has been getting really good reviews in the facebook group. The ender-3 is essentially a smaller cr-10(except its 24v[good]).
The MK3 is awesome now, but I had some issues with it at first and prusa had to send me a replacement. The replacement has been flawless, and it prints beautifully. EDIT: I think the MK3 needs some time to get the bugs worked out before I can recommend it fullyā¦
Get a cr-10/cr-10s, you wont regret it.
@deucesdown yeah enclosures hold up fine. Canāt really bash it into a curb thoughā¦ Itās mostly to protect from dirt, rocks, water, etcā¦ I use silicon caulk to fill in gaps and I use Velcro to keep everything onto the board and the enclosure really just keeps itās pressed on to the Velcro. Iāll paint or spray platidip on them also, not always though. I have had some enclosures break when I first started printing because they were supporting the weight of the battery and all the vibrations, and I was not using Velcro or double-sided tape for the components. They broke around the screws or layers would seperate cause I didnāt have the write settings. Learned from my mistakes and have been all good since then.
@wafflejock only issue Iāve had was the heated bed stopped working a few days ago. Contacted support after 2 day back and forth and me sending a video of the issue they are sending me a new bed. Besides that Im really enjoying the printer. Glass did not come warped, leveling is manual but very easy after printing larger leveling knobs, and dimensions are very accurate when printing.
I recently switched to petg, its now my favorite filament. No warping at all, flexible and tough, no odour. Adheres to a bare mirror with ease, and pops right off when its cool. Should have tried it ages ago.
Prusa i3 or Creality CR10. But, you get what you pay for. Itās worth saving up, even if itās just to get the most current version of the Prusa i3 (mk3)
CR-10 for sure, I have it and I love it. Another good one Anycubic i3 MEGA.
My cr-10 and MK3 were purchased at the same time. Cr-10 has been running non stop with zero issues. MK3 has been down multiple times for repairs. A lot of other people are having issues with the mk3 too.
I donāt actually have experience with either of them, thatās just what Iāve heard.
Prusa i3 clone acrylic frame paid $100 (new)
able to run PLA, PETG, ABS, NYLON, IGUS, HEMP, stainless steel, carbon fiber. No issues other than carbon fiber chewing the crap out of nozzles. Been using for long time now almost none stop it seems 
Some add ons could give your printer; ā¢Mosfet board or SSR ā¢ttl smoother (between steppers and driver board) helps if machine is skipping steps. ā¢24v heat bed ā¢autobed leveling
Also built one from scratch modeled like prusa i3. Gave me way more knowledge of how it works and whats important to get right.
Currently digging the MPCNC as you can swap many tools in and out, laser, end mill, pen, hot end, sander, drag knife, router( instead of end mill), and can adjust work area by different size bars and belts, really sweet part is you can have multiples of anyone of the above mentioned tools running at same time simply by adding more gantries.
Edit; forgot to add TPU & TPE (my belt making material 
)
Due to lack of space I run a CR-10 miniā¦ Itās a super easy printer to setup compared to my old rigidbot kit.
But the mini lacks a second Z motor, also CR-10s are Bowden driven so you might have problems if you need to do flexible printsā¦
Does anyone else use a Lulzbot Taz? Iāve only had mine for about a month, buy if the 3 printers I own it is by far the best.
My local micro center has been ruuning luzbots religiously, theyāve got some nice features, my favorite being the nozzle cleaner.
The weld leveling bed has me excited, never knew how great it would be.
