If you are aiming for the most charge cycles (while still maintaining a decent range), the best way is to only charge your lipos up to to 4.1v instead of 4.2 and discharge to 3.5v. Charging to 4.1v should double the amount of charge cycles for you batteries
Lol, the one person you didnāt tagā¦
I highly recommend the mini remote, rock solid reliable and cheap. I bet the other guys will agree with me
Oh thatās interesting I didnāt know that last 5-10% charge makes that much of a difference over the batteries life. Thanks for the tip!
Haha cuz you recommended it to me yesterday I appreciate your help and advise my man!!
Iām using the nano-x, no complaints.
Oh shoot! Did I really? Lol well my opinion hasnāt changed
I still charge my batteries to 4.2 I donāt care what the battery university says. Been charging them full for over a year now and their still going strong. Besides Lipos are easy to replace.
I donāt think you would notice any affect till atleast 200 cycles. There really is no gain to charging to 4.2 Vs 4.1 in terms of usable capacity. This is a little test I ran with a hundred identical cells and this was the result.
I canāt say for sure that my bms will balance my cells if I stop charging below 4.2
Yeah with BMS thatās tricky they tend to only balance at their detected full charge I get mine with 4.1 cutoff
I just checked, the balance voltage on mine is 4.2v So you got your balance voltage set at 4.1v ?
Yeah, Iām also using custom charger thatāll charge whatever S configuration to 4.1*S with this it does normal CC charge curve just at 4.1 instead of 4.2
Update: After taking it for a couple more rides the dropouts and throttle sticking is still occurring. I ordered a clip on ferrite ring to see if that will help. If not, it looks like Iāll be buying a new remote haha
Is your motor mount plastic ?
no its welded .25" Aluminum flat-bar
I have similar problems and the cause is voltage spikes from the motor which are with very high voltages (in some cases over 5mm through the air to the scooter aluminium body). I think giving an easy path outside for a small spike can save the vesc, but not 100% sure.
Just wanted to give everyone an update:
After purchasing a new remote from @JLabs the cutting out problem was completely diminished. Been riding around for almost a month with no issues whatsoever.
Thanks for all the help and support guys!
-AAron
Glad you got it figured out!
Why was the remote the problem? How would that force the vesc to reset?