Board starts and stops

Hi all ! I’ve bought two years ago a TeamGee H5. After breaking the board, I’ve made a new one and pluged all the electornics on it. All worked well… until I was riding and my board suddenly stoped.

When I click the power button, the board beeps briefly and stops. If I click again, nothing happens, but if I wait some times (or if I short circuit the capacitor), I can get the beep again… But nothing more. So it appears to be an electronical issue, but I have absolutely no clue where to start to debug the circuit board. There are hundreds of DELs and resistors, and stuff.

Had any of you encountered a similar issue, or have any idea what sort of tests I could try ?

Useful info, the printed board is a Wanhdt dual ESC-专业四轮滑板车控制器制造商-深圳万华数据科技有限公司

Thank in advance !

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Sounds like a bad bms or maybe even a switch. Could be the battery.

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If the board is fully charged, check the voltage from the battery XT connector to see if the battery is sending out volts. If it is, the esc is probably damaged. If the esc turns on though, it’s fine. If it doesnt and there’s voltage, the switch probably broke… if there’s very little movement or if there’s cut out from just standpoint, like flip the board over and just hit the trigger and see if it cuts off that way, then it’s probably the bms stopping current.

In other words, there’s many issues that can be the case.

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I’m not really used to the terms, what are BMS and ESC ?

The battery is fully charged and working : when I test it, the output is 36V as required.
Maybe an internal switch or resistor yes, but where to start the tests ? Do you have any idea where I may get the printed circuit board schema ?

— Further info —
If I check the voltage on the circuit board, just where the battery connector is welded, I get 36V.
When I click the on/off button, the board beep once, a led lit, then everything shut.
After that, the voltage is 0 and increase slowly until coming back to 36V (on the board only, if I unplug the battery and test it, it’s still at 36V).
So it definetly looks like something to do with the capacitor.
But are the capicitors in fault, or is that something else causing the touble ?

I tried to test the capacitors with a multimeter, on the Ohm setting.
The capacitor resistance inscreased slowly, indicating it’s charginf. So it looked like working.
I short circuit them to uncharged them before pluging back the battery.
Just after this test, I pressed the on/of swith, the board beeped twice (as it should be) but then, tens of leds started to blink and the beeper was bip-bip-bip-bip-bip-bip.
I stoped and start the board many times before it came back to the previous behaviour (single beep and nothing more).

So I also consider the chip to be in fault (like to be in secure mode or whatever). But I’m not good enought in electronics to improvise further tests…

Did this happened as soon as you hit the trigger, or when it was turned on and left it for a bit?

This is actually the key point to know.

Note: apparently the H5 from teamgee all have the same issue with the led button beeping once then dying. Fully charged batteries are 42V for 10s or 4.2v if it’s one. If it’s 36, something is way off…

However, the answer to your issue is that the antispark on the esc is damaged and everytime you turn it on, the spark from the battery might be causing it to stop. This is what I can conclude after hearing this about the h5 a lot.

The best way to know for sure is to connect the esc (electronic speed controller) to a different battery and testing it. If it works fine, its the bms (battery management system). You can just open the battery pack and find where the black wire is connected to, desolder it, and just resolder it on the negative side of the battery (you can find that by using the bms wire and see where b- is soldered to. That will make the battery bypassed.

It happened as soon as I pressed the trigger, I mean, like juste the time for the circuit to start.

I concluded the same thing, it definetly looks like a “secure mode” thing. Thank you very much, I’ll try your tests !

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Whou-hou ! Excellent !! Thanks a lot @LeonCamero

So I bypassed the BMS by soldering the black cable on both sides.
I started the circuit and bip-bip-bip-bip-bip, then I thought “Hummm, maybe it’s because I’ve unpluged averything else”.
So I pluged back the motors… and TA-DA ! It’s working like charm !

Then, I don’t know if it’s because the BMS is faulty, or the battery itself.
Is there any danger about what I’ve done, on the long term ?

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Nope. Bms bypassing is normal. If you didn’t do that, the bms would had killed you later on. I’ve seen some crazy things because of bms failures. However, I would recommend a new battery long term.

Just remember not to brake when your battery is full. Bms usually would shut down braking if it’s full, this on the other hand… doesn’t.

Okay, so it workED like a charm… I rode my board for like 5 minutes, then it went off.

I unmount it again, thinking the bypass soldered join had broken but it hasn’t. So I’m facing a new issue now.

I’ve tested the battery, it’s full (around 40V).
When I press the on/off swith, the circuit beeps once and kind of starts to beep a second time before shuting down.
I can start it over and over again in a row, it starts and stops the same way. Almost like the switch was the issue (could it be ?)
If I keep the switch pressed, two leds are blinking alternatively, without any beep.
After doing some tests (unpluging this and that, testing the battery, and so on) the board worked again (mysteriously) and after a while shut down again.

Could it be the battery completely dead ? I, unfortunately, don’t have another one to try, and can’t afford to buy one if I’m not sure it’ll fix the issue.

Once you do this and the issue still occurs, it is no longer the battery having issues. It’s the esc (electronic speed controller). It’s probably defective and unfortunately stopped functioning properly.

The switch is cheap to get and you can check if they sell it on teamgee website. But, it seems like the two options of hope would be:

A) hope it’s the switch having issues and changing it.

Or B) hoping it’s the esc having issues and just buying that.

Batteries are very expensive, so just hope your issue is these two. I don’t know how to really test this since I normally have two batteries to test.

Also

That is how you connect the remote control back to the board if it ever disconnected.

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Are facing an issue with the device or complete longboard?

If you have one among these electric longboards then I can help you out thoroughly.

I do have a TeamGee H5 so yeah it’s on the list :slight_smile:
To be precisely correct, I do have the electronical parts of it, the board itself cracked a while ago and I built a new one where I pluged the engine !

I went through all of your suggestions on Best Electric Longboards | Fastest Remote Control Skateboards - BoardsOnTop