Base plate splits are definitely better than a synthetic split, Usually the place to start is with a lower degree rear base plate or de-wedging the rear to make the king pin angle closer to perpendicular to the ground. This can get tricky since all the power is driving the rear wheels in most cases and the wiring may need to be modified.
That is true… But even the smallest split can make a board stable…haha ever seen someone go 35mph+ on a Loaded vanguard? While.i don’t suggest it because the vanguard is a noodle, a 46r/50f split makes it stable. I could barely hit 20’s when I had the same angles due to how much torsional flex it has and the front and rear oscillating off of one another.
The Bustin sportster 33 is easy to modiify to prevent wheel bite since it is Bamboo / Maple construction so you might want to consider making some changes to the deck. You can get more rebound by using either RipTide APS or KranK with KranK being our highest rebound compound to date. For your you weight on a symmetrical set up I would go with a Canon / FatCone set up in either APS 87.5a or KranK 87a. The FatCone Boardside will give you a lot more support and progressively ramp up resistance the further you lean. This works well for set ups that have a potential for wheel bite. Like I said, if you can modify the deck to eliminate the wheel bite issue first, you will be a lot happier in the long run. If you want a really stable, high performance set up, you may want to consider running a Caliber II 44 degree rear to take some of the steering input out of the back. If you do that, I would suggest running a Canon / Canon front and a Cannon / Chubby rear in the same compound /druos listed above. Since the rear is at 44 degrees, you have greater leverage over the bushings so you need to use either a larger bushing (suggested) or a harder bushing in the rear
Torqueboards 218mm 50 degree cone/barrel. Drop-through.
Currently stable up to 25. I want the same stability with more rebound and a tighter turning radius. I have the back tightened down more than the front.
Blank 39" drop-through. No wheelbite. http://www.skateshred.com/index.php/wholesale-blank-longboard-decks/canadian-maple-wood-drop-through-blank-deck.html
I have been using the fatcone bs on my rear truck with good effect on my traction, it works much better for me than a chubby because it allows more turn but retains the stably with more urethane, it acts almost like a taller pushing and I like taller bushings…The Krankz are the best for carrying any amount of weight and retaining rebound, I have about 235lbs on my deck when I’m riding and I still want a lively feel so I can carve and shred and the high rebound does that. I tried the WFB as well and they seems a little less lively, but super stable and comfortable…I tend to run harder duro on the bs of every truck and softer on the rs to tune the lean, I think of the boardside bushing (bs) to be the support of the deck and road feel, while the road-side bushing is used to tune the lean and carve, it depends on the bushing seat shape though and different trucks are different trucks, the surfrodz bushing seat almost provides a progress feel when using just a barrel while the same barrel in a Caliber will feel pretty constant and linear, best bet to to trial and error till you tune to the feel YOU like…it is sort of subjective that way after you get the functionality dialed or close to what you need…
I don’t ride anything else besides Riptide bushings now (a downhiller named Jake “wingnut” Knutson turned me onto them), they have one for everything. I have recently tried the new Hardcore barrels and they have a nice rebound as well, but no where near the options Riptide has when it comes to fine tuning. Ace trucks are the only bushings I leave stock, they just fit me well and my weight out of the box, I sometimes use Bones hardcore on tkp trucks for bowls and things when the stocks are just too soft for my fat manatee like body and I need to check out the shorter street truck options from Riptide as well.
I have some in the Liquid Attack tkp trucks and they are really nice in that truck, I wonder how they work in Bennet, Tracker, Independent…I have run Riptide barrels and fatcones and chubbies, in Arsenal, Avenue, Caliber and Paris, and they just feel better than anything I have tried. Blood orange seems rubbery, Venom seems mushy, Reflex are nice but limited to a few great uses like Bennett, and the Nipples are a weird size I only use in the Bolzen trucks where they fit better than anything else, they are like a street truck where the bs bushing is taller than the rs and somewhere between a tall and normal barrel…modern rkp tall bushing trucks like the Savants, Arsenals, Ronins, Roques and others are the best turning trucks I have used when it comes to bushings, you cannot argue with more lean and bushing in your trucks, you cannot have enough of a good thing, the fatcone comes into play perfectly here, and when you have more room for a bushing and add a fat cone, you can use a much softer bushing that has the same stability as a smaller one, and lean further with more stability…There’s also a lot of people using the bushing seat bushings now, many people who used a spherical bearing on the kingpin are now opting for a tuned bushing in it’s place and the downhill guys are going crazy over Roques for this reason, they are a cheap way to experience a tall bushing and insert…it gives you more to tune, but makes up for the lack of queenpin and helps keep the truck centered and from shifting…I love all this new technology, it’s a great time to be a skater, I hope people can start to understand it all and see what I am talking about. Without tuning to your weight and preference these advantages are lost. I recommend just dumping a 100 bucks on bushing and forming a little kit like I did, that way I have a box with all the options I might ever need for any skateboard build…
You are battling is a couple of things regarding your poor turning radius, first you are using a drop through deck and second your trucks are wider than your deck. Both of those features are killing the leverage you can exert over you trucks. You could achieve a much tighter turning radius by simply top mounting your trucks in place of dropping them through the deck. If that is not an option, go with a RipTide KranK 87a StreetCone / Canon front and a StreetBarrel / Canon rear with cupped washers all around. Due to the relatively short king pin of the Torqueboards 218mm 50 degree trucks, running the Street sized bushing on top which are .5" tall and the regular longboard bushings on the bottom which are .6" tall, allows you to use washers in all 4 positions and therefore greater tunability
Hi @Alphamail, I’m building a new board. It’s going to be a Landyachtz Evo deck. I have a set of TB trucks to accommodate the two 6374 motors but was also considering the surf rods from psychotiller. I’m 6ft 6 and 200lbs, reasonable eboard experience and loads of push longboard experience. (no “real” downhill experience) Snowboarder and surfer for years. I wondered if you have experience of these decks and could point me in the right direction. I’m imagining 1/2" risers as the enclosure is 25mm. Looking for stability…
Hey @bigben, the Evo is a legendary DH deck so it should be quite stable out of the gate since the front is wedged and the rear is already de-wedged 15 degrees. Regarding truck choice you may want to review what is said regarding what the deck was designed for before you build: http://reviewlongboards.com/landyachtz-evo-review/
Thanks for pointing me to that review. So looking at perhaps some 45 degree caliber baseplates and the TB hangers?
I do not think the TB hangers will be compatible in Caliber base plates due to their smaller pivot nose.
I’m running TB 218 hangers in Caliber II base plates with Riptide WFB CALBER II pivot cups. The fit seems fine to though I’m not an expert.
Can you share some of your knowledge about pivot cup duros? 96a vs 90a
@Namasaki certainly, years ago when we starting toying with pivots me made a wide range of pivot duros and sent them to our team riders to test. The results were consistent in that the preferred duro was 96a. That duro struck a fine balance between control and suppleness. At the request of one of our largest retailers, we began ,making 90a, 95a and 100a due to market pressure. Who are we to tell people what they need! I have tried them all and keep coming back to the 96a WFB for the feel of it. It is likely a option of personal preference and for a lighter weight rider the 90a may make sense but for my 197 lbs, the 96a is perfect
@Alphamail Thanks for staring this thread. I recently got my hands on a small assortment of WFB, APS & Krank bushings and I’m eager to learn and experiment with them.
Does the width of the hanger, e.g., TB 218 (305mm width) trucks affect the optimal duro of the pivot cups to use? Would 100a be better for these? Correct me if I’m wrong, but due to the increased leverage of wider hangers, it seems like we need to use higher duro bushings to get the same “feel” that we would get on narrower hangers. Would that hold true for the pivot cups too, or am I off base on all of this?
@Mobutusan, The bushing duro will have a much greater influence over the trucks than the pivot duro. Wider hangers do allow you to put greater force on the trucks since the pressure you are exerting on the edge of the deck is translated into hanger angulation in place of the wheel lift you could get with a narrow hanger. I personally do not think pivot duro is influenced by hanger width but I have never devised a test protocol to determine the effect.
what do ya recommend for paris pivot cups? mine is squeaking a TON. I know i just need to put some wax in it but i would just like nicer pivot cups since these ones are cheap and salvaged from different trucks. i’m 145lbs.
Our WFB compound is very quiet in comparison to stock, I suggest the RipTide 96a Paris pivots:
i’ll be ordering soon
Thank you for the help
- 852 bear grizzly trucks
- stock bear bushing roadside 90a plugged riot bushing.
- Top speed I will be going most of the time is 20 mph but would like ability to get a smaller turning radius.
- Cruising and Commuting
- Shape will probably be freeride shape landyatch switch 40.5 long 10 wide with a wheelbase of 25 wheel bite shouldn’t be a factor as I will be putting risers on it