Hey @stormboard1 the first thing I would do is ditch the soft riser since they are prone to unpredictable handling. If vibration is an issue, there are other ways to deal with that. A tall, 50 degree symmetrical setup will be prone to instability so after you replace the soft risers, dewedge the rear by at least 10 degrees to take some of the steering input out of the rear and leave the front at 50 for now. Alternatively if you want to keep it symmetrical, replace the baseplates with 44’s to settle the setup down a bit. As for bushings, it will depend a lot on what you decide to do with the suggestions above. If you do not want to change anything except the bushings, I suggest a pair of Canons up front and a Canon / Chubby rear in APS 90a or KranK 90a
Your deck has two different wheelbase options as well (25.5 - 26.5)
Make sure your on the 26.5 option with those 50’s…
Hey @razad7 what configuration are in the Cali 50’s currently and how does it feel?
Hi @Alphamail, currently with stock with bolts pretty loose. It’s fine, turns and decent control at high speeds. It feels a bit dead. looking for more rebound and lean.
Thanks for the info.
I run dual KranK barrels in 93a in my HK trucks, 1.5 turns from hand-tight. To fix the slop in the kingpin, I made a shim from aluminum beer can material (DIY to the rescue). Pivot cup will be replaced after I’ve put some more miles on it.
Hey @razad7, spaced on answering this
“Hi is this post still alive? If so. I’m 63Kg Caliber II 50 degrees I am looking for a very surfy/snowboardy feel. Stable at 25km/h Thanks so much!”
I think a Cone/FatCone setup will get you where you want to be on this build. I suggest KranK 87a or APS 87.5a.
Changed the stock bushings of my Caliber II’s against purple Orangatang nipples with flat washers and I have to say the ride has heaps improved compared to the barrel / cone setup with cupped washer on the street side. Also, the sideways slop has slightly improved since the Orangatang nipples are slightly larger in diameter. I will make some insert bushings out of the old barrels and see how this goes.
Are you sure you installed your trucks in the right direction…
Chucked out the 1/4" rubber risers so now just one 1/4" plastickets riser front and back…fitting a 44 degree caliber baseplate to the back truck soon with the 50 on the front …but still have the speed wobbles at not much over 10mph maybe less lol
Hi, just wanted to confirm what I have thought and ask what you think about it 
I have Evo 39" deck, front calibers 50º 10" and rear caliber 44º baseplate and TB218 hanger. I will be using 6.5" pneumatic wheels with our 1:3 gear drive.
At the moment after doing some research I ordered these things:
- Riptide Pivot Cups (set of 2) - Durometer : 96A, Type : Caliber II
- Riptide KranK Canon Bushings - Durometer : 93A
- Riptide KranK StreetFatCone Bushings - Durometer : 93A
Thinking of trying these setups:
I am 182cm ~83kg the board will weight around 13-15kg. I am running pretty bumpy asfalt roads many small hill bumps which makes my trampa jump and etc… I would like to have high speed stability I hate to drive slow right now cause at higher speed its getting unstable… But still manage to do some sharp 90º turns…
What do you think @Alphamail ?
JIC
You get that you will have 65/29 the way you have it?
@banjaxxed recommended that 
But if I understand correctly back angle is OK as it will provide more stability but front is too much now right? Will be too carvy?
Yeah 65 is a lot of turn for the front by any ones std, you can always wedge/de-wedge later to get it where you want though.
I’d ride it first, even if you just kick it about.
Brad doesn’t do any wedge-risers though as far as I know you will have to find them else where…
I am getting some cheap ass longboard wheels to try out deck because it arrives tomorrow 
So what you guys suggest for the front 44?
Having owned and ridden that absolute crap out of 4 Evo’s (x2 Evo & x2 Evo Falcons) I would suggest you try the built in deck geometry. The back is at 35°, the front is at 65°. The back is dewedged to lessen the turnability of the rear to make it more stable. The front is wedged increase the carvability/turnability.
I have found that wedging the back to 45° will increase the turnability but will make it noticeably less stable at high speeds. You could then dewedge the front to 55° to increase turnability, but then you essentially have a regular drop deck…so why?
I know some guys who are doing ultra-high speed runs with some mondo tuck are finding an altered geometry to be beneficial but I think 99% of people will be losing the benefit of the board geometry by altering it.
On to bushings… My setup is a little less traditional than most because I hated the slow return of the deck on deep carves. THis is what I cam up with to resolve the issue and it made this board a beast.
- front, road side > WFB Barrel 93a (Red)
- front, board side > KranK Street Barrel 93a (Maroon)
- rear, road side > WFB TALL Barrel 95.5 (Green)
- rear, board side > KranK Street Chubby 96a (Grey)
You can read about it here…
Hopefully this will help some folks.
On my mountainboard I run dual soft cones at the front, dual hard barrels at the back. Perfectly stable up until the 30s. I kept increasing the stiffness of the rear bushings until it was stable at 25mph. Id like to run fwd, but it isnt very practical.
Meanwhile I can’t go past 10mph without the deck wobbling like stupid …wtf
I’d go with those guys ideas, my suggestions were a starting point, they have tries that deck. Total cost of any misinformation = a se tof risers…not bad.
Ps.Get those plugs 3Dprinted
Words escape me, do you want to send it to me to sort out what the problems are?