love to but pretty sure itd cost a fortune im in ireland…
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@Alphamail what do you think of my planned bushing set up? I tried to follow your guidelines 
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OK, a couple of things, do you know the evo deck wedge and de-wedge? If it is at 15 degrees you are now at 65 (15 + 50) front and 29 rear (44-15). That is a bit steep for the front do I would suggest de-wedging the front by 10 t0 15 degrees or run the 44 up front and the 50 in the rear for a 59 / 35 split which will work fine for higher speeds. Since the rear has lot more leverage over the bushings than the front, you will need to compensate to balance the set up. Since the TB 218’s take the following from my post on 02/02/18:
With the durometer remaining constant the relative feel follows:
Cone / Cone: Extremely carvey set up, generally used for low speed pedestrian slalom, campus crusing Cone / Canon: Playful carving set up, good for commuting where tight turns are occasionally needed. Low to medium speeds Canon / Canon: Versatile set up for medium to high speeds, can be run loose for tight turns and tighter for high speeds. Response is very linear Canon / FatCone: Similar to the Canon / Canon but the response is progressive. Resistance ramps up progressively the further you go. Canon / Magnum: Extremely stable set up, meant for very high speeds or a heavier rider with a wide board
I suggest running a Canon / Canon Front and a Canon / Magnum rear in KranK 90a but this may need to be fine tuned depending on what your final truck angles end up being.
As for the pivots, 96a is great! Regarding the StreetFatCone, throw that in some Indys for some fun as it will be too short for the Calibers (.5" tall verses .6")
Crap @stormboard1, something else is going on with your set up, have you checked alignment or if your hangers are bent?
Thanks! Then I will just swap back 44 to front and front 50 to the back 
Regarding bushings, what do you mean fine tune, and could you explain humanly about durometer?
P.S. Is X/Y is X board side or road side on suggestions?
P.P.S What difference between Street magnum and simple magnum?
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My belt alignment is bad ya I’ve broke 2 belts on last 2 ride haha I’m going to try sort it tomorrow
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Durometer is a measure of hardness and it roughly translates into resistance of lean for a given weight.
X/Y = Top / Bottom or Roadside / Boardside
The word Street designates a .5:" tall bushing usually used in TKP trucks, a standard Magnum is .6" tall.
Thank you! Just regarding durometer is 93A good or bad choice for my weight? If I understand higher is more you need to lean to turn right?
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I weigh about 91 KG and normally use 90a KranK. I think 93 will be too much for you at the angles you are running
Just my logical thinking what if I am on higher deck pneumatic wheels? Wouldn’t more resistance help? As it is easier to turn on higher deck than lower?
The lever arm is measured from the top of the deck to the base plate so unless you are using a big stack of risers, the leverage is not effected by the overall height of the wheels. If you feel 90a will be too soft, go for the 93a KranK
Oh OK I thought its from ground point of view (Can’t imagine running 20" wheels" and turn is based on deck/baseplate)… I have already 93A coming up so I dont know if I should order magnum in 93 or 90 
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I am a big fan of keeping the same duro all around and messing with shapes so i would suggest the 93 Magnum to match
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Today I received my ordered parts… Damn the evo is good…
Also I only received two bushings I was thinking like many told me that it will come for set of two trucks… So good thing… The problem with canon bushings was that caliber original washers did not fit. Also the height was bit high needed to squeeze to get the nut on. With 93A I am able to turn the truck not the same as I did with original caliber bushings… Plus I got two different bushing on calibers one was cone on roads another barrel so was interesting.
Also I don’t know if that’s because of my 70mm Chinese wheels but then I fully turn one wheel lifts off the ground is that normal?
can belt and wheel/motor pulley alignment cause wobbles too ya?
definitely
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buy a square, it will help you get perfect lines…
6 Inch Long Blade, 4-5/16 Inch Long Base, 0.0001 Inch Accuracy Steel Square
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i will just not that one for $371.52 
lol, i didn’t even pay attention to the price. I’ve never seen one that expensive. Try this one…
@Alphamail so i didnt test out the stock caliber bushings like i should instead i changed them out and not sure where the stock ones are but this is what i changed to… 93a riptide wfb barrel bushings 88a riptide wfb cone bushings large khiro cup washers Atlas Precision Top Hat Washers Riptide Pivot Cups (set of 2) - Durometer : 95A, then i swapped the wfb cones and precision washers to the cones from the tb218 trucks and used theyr cup washers as the precision washer dug into the wfb cones and ruined them. think this might be causing the speed wobbles