I second this, check the four screws to see if it’s all the way down. We put Loctite on them, but checking them again cannot hurt.
Do i owe u for return shipping good sir 
Yes, if it was opened like what happened to yours and you weren’t able to put it back on with the bearing properly seated, then the magnets will definitely scrape 
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Nah…just a Guinness when we meet, aye?
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Very excited, can’t wait for some carvon t-shirts!
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Also going to stop selling the torquedrive separately?
It was not there when I received the drive, I rode like 3 miles for a test ride then it was raining for like 8 days so no ride, and when I wanted to use it again nope…
Edit : when I put wheels and try to ride the board inside without power there is a big low frequency rumbling from the motors
Yes. We have to pause offering them as we concentrate on the completes. Once we get a handle on the orders for the completes and if we get extras in the future, we may offer them again.
But I expect we will also be busy taking care of complete orders, pre and post sales. We need to focus attention so that we can serve everybody better.
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Jerry, so glad to see you back on the forum. And especially with an XL update. I had heard from a little bird that the hanger schedule was behind with Chris, but that was like 6 months ago. I guess the XL’s were always behind the Speed Drives, so hopefully it won’t be long now.
PS, I recently got my hands on Rik’s (@runplayback) single V2.5 setup and it is really smooth and surprisingly powerful for a single motor. And amazingly quiet on FOC. So cool. My wife was watching me cruise up and down the street and still had to ask me if it my board was really electric.
And speaking of that, do you happen to have any single V2.5 cored drive wheels in 90 or 97mm, possibly Abec 11, still around that you’d want to sell? If so, I’ll take this to PM’s.
Okay, I will try to finish your other drive right away and send them out ASAP. I’ll take a video of it to make sure everything is in order.
Once you get them, you can compare it to what you have right now. Then if what you have is still problematic, then you can send that back to me and I’ll take care of it.
You can open up the motor, just remove the four small screws around the back of the rotor. Then pull straight so as not to scratch the stator. The hard part is putting the rotor back with the bearing on like that in the picture.
EDIT: If you can find a tube with a 10mm OD and 8mm ID, then you can slip it onto the axle and it will be easier to put the rotor with the bearing back on.
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It’s actually more than that.
Let me rummage for that wheel. It won’t be new if ever I find one. No need to pay, the least I can do for being patient. PM me address.
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So awesome! Thanks! Hope you can find one somewhere. Like I said, good to have you back.
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I only ran the drives without a wheel and nut for motor detection. I did ride with one of the motors unpowered for a little bit when the power to its focbox disconnected, probably for like 5 minutes tops. Do you think this might have caused it?
As to fixing it I have to remove the screws and then just push it in and retighten? I don’t need a press or any special tools?
Haha yes, I saw that. But I feel like there is a difference between the amount of spin that occurs during motor detection, and a full spin with a remote. 
I actually remember reading it before that you should do motor detection with wheels on, I think Frank of Trampa posted it…not 100% sure though.
So yes, do motor detection with wheels on. It will give a more accurate reading.
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Thanks bud! 
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You don’t have to remove the motor if you just want to push the rotor back towards center. Just put the wheel and the spacer between the wheel and motor to push the wheel, then crank the axle nut. tight. If the wheel does not turn easily because you tightened the axle nut too much, then put some speed rings between wheel and spacer.
The rotor will be pushed towards the center via the middle of the bearing, and by the hub of the wheel itself. Everything should line up and be supported by the axle nut.
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