After using them on rough pavements for 2 months, one of the wheels started free rolling on the motor. As you can see from the photo below, the teeth inside are mostly worn out.
I understand that @JdogAwesome has just created a wheel insert for this purpose but I don’t have a 3D printer. I do not want to contact Jerry because I suppose he would be very busy now and it would take a while for me to receive a replacement wheel. And even if I do receive a new wheel, it won’t last too long.
So is it a good idea just to glue the wheel back on? If so, what kind of glue should I use?
The two things that come to mind from the time I spent on downhill mountain bikes is either hair spray (the kind Donald Trump Uses) or gasket sealer. (from the auto parts store.) Hair Spray will dry quickly. Gasket sealer will take a day. Both will most likely work better than anything else for this application.
Thank you @psychotiller! I will try Gasket Silicone then.
(After fixing that, I will try the Maytech remote that you sent me.)
I strongly recommend to order original ABEC Flywheels from CarvON. I recently ordered them and Jerry shipped them immediately (maybe I was lucky ). When you compare them to these cheap clones it’s like night and day. You won’t regret. Flywheels they rooollllll, they are faster and have less drag. After upgrading I noticed that my motors run cooler and my range increased by 5-10%. I think @Haimindo had similar experience.
So Jerry shipped you 4 wheels and two of them were cored out for the hubs right?
Loctite 326 and primer 7649 as per Jerry
Yes, 4 flywheels and two of them cored out. He also shipped me carbon caps
Nice!! Was it hard to replace them?
It was easy. You just need the hex wrench and a skateboard tool.
Wait so are you saying you want to glue the wheel to the motor casing? Or do you want to glue the black plastic insert to the wheel. If you want to glue the insert in place I think super glue would be suitable.
Awesome hey checkout my new thread and post up some info there
97mm ABEC was not an option.
BTW, thank you for your tip on using machine oil on the bearings. I will give it a try.
Gasket sealer unfortunately only sticks to metal, not to rubber. The dark thing over that section of the motor in the photo below is the dried sealer.
While I was thinking of ways to fix this like cutting groves on the inside of the wheel, I noticed the reason for this excessive wear. This is the good wheel:
This is the bad wheel after I slide it back on:
The recess of the bad wheel is deeper, like 2mm too deep:
The carbon fiber cap therefore could not lock the bad wheel in position. The coupling was loose, causing excessive wear on the teeth of the wheel.
Anyway, will try to fix it myself since this is after all a DIY project!
Did you try hairspray? We used it on our handle bar grips with great success. (urethane hand grips and metal bars)
The fit between the wheels and the motors are quite loose and I found hair spray too thin. Numerous layers have to be used.
I applied gasket silicon again. This time, I filled the excess recess with silicon too so that the carbon fiber end cap can do its job of holding the wheel in position. Also, I cut spiral grooves in the inside of the wheel and hopefully, the forward turning of the motor would drive the wheel towards the motor and keep the coupling tight.
So far so good after 90 minutes of a shopping journey on some rough pavements.
(BTW, your MayTech remote V2 is pretty good. No more abrupt braking like it did with the Nano remote.)
Has anyone else had issue with the cabon plates that hold the wheels on bending, and thus, allowing the wheel to bend?
Sounds like you’re carving hard on those! My early V2’s have an Aluminum ring.