CGT 10s5p Attempt

Hi guys, I made a 10s5p for my CGT but I could use some suggestions for the last part of the installation. After a few weeks of waiting for parts & then building the battery, I was able to hook it up to my BMS.

However, I’m running into BMS space-issue. As indicated in the photos, it is unable to sit in the housing between the battery & the ESC. Some ppl relocated it to the outside, and others relocated the ESC in order to make space for the BMS to be placed in-between the battery and the ESC. I chose to do the latter, but I’m still short on space.

Atm, I’m out of ideas. I could buy a spacer for the CGT heatsink from a guy in AU, but its like $85 with shipping so I went with the mod route.

Does anyone happen to have any ideas on what to do with this BMS? Remount the ESC again? Shorten the wiring to a super small length?

My CGT Mod

Edit - changed the link, added some photos, comments, etc. for easier reading & to follow the pics chronologically

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Someone else made an encloure for it, along with a power switch and charger jack, and put it over the rear trucks. I think it was @Fiori edit: it was

I also have a Carbon GT that badly needs a 10S5P and I’ve been unwilling to settle for a 10S4P

I initially followed Fiori’s setup, but I think the mistake I made was in gluing the batteries together. I have disassembled the 10s5p & will be solely spot-welding the batteries together in order to minimize space.

I test fitted the “pack” (lined up the batteries, unconnected) and can confirm that the BMS will indeed fit internally in the CGT batt. housing…but I still had to relocate the ESC, and you must setup the pack without anything in between the batteries.

I feel like the appeal of the CGT is that is has a very low profile and is pretty stealth. 5P would be cool but I’m going 4P with mine to keep that look. Aside from range and being able to pull more amps, is there something I am missing as an advantage?

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This is the 10s5p setup I hope to go for - it should have the same stealth look.


That’s perfect, keeps everything under the lid

Just saw that video. I really don’t know how that guy got it all it fit, even with scooting the ESC back bravo to him. It was a TIGHT fit for me.

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The real test is not if the lid goes on, but if it goes 1000 miles without burning down or breaking down

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Agreed. I try to insulate as much as possible and it takes up a lot of space.

Tired of having to build things that fit into this stupid compartment. I would rather build the compartment to fit my things.

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My roommate suggested grinding out the housing to make some room, but I am not inclined to do so :sweat_smile:

One major thing to note is that in the video, the builder also removed the metal plate on the evolve BMS in order to move wiring under the circuit board. I may do the same if space is too limited; the builder also spliced longer power wires to the BMS as well in order to relocate them to the top of the ESC, instead of next to the BMS.

I ground out the thin lip that was under the heat sync(since I took mine out now that it has foc boxes in it)

Niiice - what did you do to wire the Foboxes with the 200kv motors? One of the quick-connectors can easily be changed but it seems that the UART connector isn’t compatible with the motors UART connector.

Fiori, According to him he removed all the wiring. Moved the ESC and drilled new holes close to where the power switch is. Then placed the ESC and screwed it in.He had to shorten some of the wires and then re-soldered them all. This gave enough space for the BMS to fit between battery pack and ESC. This is not efficent for most people and just causes hassle. There’s a guy on thingverse who create an ESC heat sink extender. I will be trying it today