Custom laminated board kit for electronic component intergration?

Hi all

I have 15 years of knowledge building custom laminated boards and DIY Kits through my company Roarockit.

For some time now I have been wanting to build a DIY kit for an eskate that would have pockets pre-cut into the individual laminates for electronics n such that a builder would laminate into whatever shape they choose by making their own profile and mold shape. I envision a kit as 7 to 9 individual 12 x 48" layers of veneer. It would come as a rectangle stack with channels and cutouts cut into the individual layers.

I have the ability to produce any number of cutout configuration internally in veneer quickly so it is not impossible to produce a number of generic internal shapes that would match to builder hardware.

Making any voids internally in a skateboard compromises its structure so this is a hurtle that would have to be solve by using carbon or fiberglass or by strengthening uncut areas of the board. I have lots of experience making super light experimental boards so it is easy for me to make prototypes to overcome these problems. Veneers I sell include bamboo, maple and birch, all in 1/16" thick so the materials could also be customized to suit the builders preference.

Every time I start researching this topic I am overwhelmed by the number of components available and their numerous shapes and sizes.

I would like to work with an experiences eskate builder who has a lot of knowledge of component configuration and their board integration. I have collaborated successfully in the past with others to produce both boards and tools for boardbuilders and this can be a profitable endevour if we come up with something marketable. Remember if you just got into eskate building you are probably not the person I am looking for but that said I am open to all suggestions and questions here.

Thanks Ted


I’m definitely not an experienced builder but here’s my thoughts. A battery pack and FOCBOX are both 22mm in depth so the electronics in the deck would need to be that as a minimum. Say you do another 5mm on the top and bottom to strengthen the deck you’d be looking at 33mm/1.3" at the very least. 21 sheets of veneer?

For bigger batteries or more space sometimes people put the BMS on top of their battery packs which would be 33mm in depth just for the electronics. Hope this gives you some insight!

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I’ve been considering buying one of your longboard kits, but have not yet cause I’ve been trying to work out how to make one and have an opening on top for the compartment and making a lid that is perfectly fit. I was going to use fiber glass to make up for the holes cut into it for more strength.

Hi Ted,

For the eskate community, I think I’m one of the best people to talk to for this project of yours.

I have bought around $500 of wood and a roar rocket bag and many other pieces. As a result, I created the second wood hollow core deck I have ever seen built on this forum.

You can see pictures and details here:

Basically, I cnc milled the veneers I bought from you, then glued them together.

What I found was that theres 2 issues:

  • Veneers are fragile, cracking while milling every 3rd or 4th sheet I milled (especially cross layers).
  • Lining them up for gluing is not straight forward. They will slid around a bit while sucking the air out of the bag due to the glue compressing and as a result, I spent over 18 hours cleaning up the edges (inside pockets where the worst to clean up).

I did take the pieces that milled out of the pockets, glued them together and used them as spacers to help keep the layers aligned. But cross layers often broke while putting it together. This resulted is a few spots where the layers where messed up (buckled).

Overall, my experience was that its doable. But its far easier to just press normal layers and mill it out layer. And the result is far better:

Heres some pics of how I did it:

The problem was that some sheets were off by as much as half an inch, and you can see that by looking at all of the dark spots in the deck on the out side. I just couldn’t keep sanding it down anymore…

Compare that, to this deck I have being made for me with a professional CNC mill after pressing:

The conclusion: It’s better to mill after pressing, not before. Less cleanup, and better results.

Also, you need at least 18 hollow core layers to fit everything, and 3 “base” layers that give foundation and 3 “lid” layers for a lid.

All is all, it would be cool to see this in a kit, but it’s really hard to get things to line up and I think the amount of clean up involved will detour a lot of people.

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A lid would be a good idea. Making it waterproof would be the trick.

There are lots of ways to keep alignment when laminating veneers. On some boards that are pre cut out I have notches that you line up on the outer edge of the board while placing in a stack. Pre drilling truck holes in each layer and putting a nail through them while laminating is another way. Yes CNC cutting veneers can be tricky and it is easy to screw up veneers while cutting. We did this for years but have moved on to using a very large and powerful laser for veneer cutting. Thank you for the links to your pictures. I will have a look at them on Monday when I am in the shop. Ted


Hi Ted,

Saw your kits on the french community and must say it is nice indeed ! So basically you’re saying that you’d be able to make custom hollow core decks to accomodate for electronics ?

Very good site indeed.

Ted, after seeing your pinch boards, I think you may be able to confirm or deny that this idea has merit. Can I have your opinion on this idea?

What do you think the possibility would be to laminate a deck with a 1" thick removable buck inside? I know it’s probably not practical, for multiples, but I think it could be done…and would be sick af.

Open only in the back, where a ¿polyurethane? plug would finish it and seal it up. You would install the electronics before installing the rear truck… and would need a way to isolate everything from sliding or bouncing.

Idk? Maybe like this: 5-6 plies on the bottom…one or two of them in cf. Along the sides and the front, a transition piece to delineate the enclosure cavity. Then the removable buck., waxed foam? 4-5 plies on top, again, with 1 or 2 cf layers.

If I could draw it, I would, but I can’t so I won’t