Estimated range would be great. That’s actually one the most important values that I use in the Ack app.
yes yes and yes 
I run ackmaniac app to see, in this order:
- fault codes
- top speed for ride
- max temps
- max/min currents (brakes too)
- min voltage (sag)
- wh/mile
- distance
First priority: is anything is blowing up. Second priority, how close am I to the limits.
If I could get a few of these it would free me from running the app on every ride. One less step…
I may be the weird one but I’m not that worried about range? My rides are along well known routes, and I know beforehand if my board can do it.
Oh I want to make clear, I’m not saying “please do these for me”. I’m fine with whatever choices you’ve made and will continue to make.
4 Likes
Thanks, this is helpful. I’m thinking that one screen should be for details. You wouldn’t use it while riding, but you may want to switch to it when you stop and check various info there. The values you mentioned would be a perfect fit.
4 Likes
I wish elapsed time was on there. When I am done with a ride, I want to know how long, how far, top speed, and average speed.
2 Likes
Maybe a page with a stopwatch feature for timing laps?
1 Like
These options are re all so cool! Multiple pages with different data would be awesome to have.
1 Like
So near but clearly pretty far…
Any tips anyone?
1 Like
You have a bootloader on the MCU, right?
1 Like
Well, the chip supposedly came pre installed with a bootloader.?
At this point I guess its a bit late to be finding out they lied…
2 Likes
Let’s assume they didn’t lie about the bootloader. Is the display soldered on the PCB or can it still be removed? If the latter, could you post a detailed picture of the PCB, ideally in good light and both sides.
1 Like
Soldered on the screen… just checking joints. there are a couple of suspect solder joints…
Oops. I should have told you to try to program the MCU before soldering the display on the PCB. Do you think you’ll manage to desolder the display?
Unfortunately, there’s a number of reasons it may not work and it will be hard to identify the culprit. It could be:
- no bootloader
- bad USB-UART adapter
- problem in the reset net (MCU doesn’t get reset on the DRT signal)
- you’re sure you have the correct capacitor (100 nF?)
- bad connection/short anywhere on the PCB
If you have an Arduino, you could use it to program the MCU. It’s a bit of a hassle, but it can be done. If that succeeded that would narrow down the issue quite a bit.
2 Likes
I have other a load of other usb-part adapters so I can rule that out. I can probably desolder the display…
That’s what the add on the listing I purchased from said too. I was getting that same error. But once I used an MCU with a bootloader it worked.
P.S- I was able to desolder the screen fairly easily with a solder iron some ceramic pliers.
1 Like
I’ll give it a go at the weekend. I’m away for work for a few days. To be honest I was pretty excited to even see the screen light up…
5 Likes
@bigben One more idea. In the Arduino IDE, try selecting “Tools > Board > Arduino Nano” and then “Tools > Processor > ATMega328P (Old Bootloader)”. Then upload the FW.
1 Like
I did try that, same response sadly…
1 Like
Thanks for the idea for a different button. I have these and the black version at my work so I used one for the master and two recessed for things I don’t want to push easily.
12 Likes
that looks great
3 Likes
Thanks man. I’ve literally been eyeballing everything. I’m only a month in on learning how to draw things up and use a lazer cutter at work. I’ve never really done anything like this before. I seriously can’t wait to get a screen that works right so I can use this thing!
1 Like