Dead/Fried Motor

I went on first ride today and everything was going smoothly until I went full throttle uphill. The when I reached the top and attempted to brake I had to jump of the board as the motor locked up, there was also a terrible smell emitting from the motor. I think the motor is fried, and when I try to turn the motor with my hand it is deficiently harder to turn than before but still turns. When using the remote it no longer spins just throbs back and forth. I think it was fried as I made the motor and battery cutoffs on the “safe” (low) side which I believed overheated my motor after going full throttle uphill. I lost the exact values but they were around 30A for motor current max/max brake and battery current max/max regen off maybe 35/20 A.

Not sure if this is any issue or just glue IMG_3725%202

My setup is a 9S2P battery, torque boards 5055/190KV Motor, torque boards nano remote and a torque ESC BLDC. IMG_3727%202 IMG_3732 This last picture is what the default setting on the speed controller was, should I have kept these? IMG_3734 Pretty new to this stuff obviously, so I’m just wondering if my motor is completely dead, (ESC seems fine) and what my values should have been, assuming those were what caused the overheat. Any help would mean a ton, thanks.

If it smells bad it is fried, for sure try looking for a black part on the winding. You can rewind it, but take it off your board trying to ride a shorted motor will certainly fry the VESC. Same thing happened to me, the solution is to switch to a bigger motor, the smaller motors may have the power but they dont have enough mass so they heat up fast.

What size motor would you recommend/you use?

Have you run the motor detection?

And the screws holdning the motor, is not to Long and touching the windings in the motor ?

5055 or 5065 for quad

6355 for dual

6374 or 6384 for single

hmmm… i wonder what a quad 5055 feels like…


Like a single 20,220.

@MoeStooge has made some similar to that with inrunners, but they are dual

@Ryguy Do not run detection on that motor. You could end up frying your ESC as well. @b264 is right. Get a much larger motor for single drive. The SK3 6374 is a classic and a known good single drive solution if you can find one.

Your belt width should be just fine for single drive in case you were wondering.


Here is how I test a motor:

Disconnect motor from anything else Connect phase A to B and verify choppy brakes Connect phase A to C and verify choppy brakes Connect phase B to C and verify choppy brakes Connect phase A to B to C and verify smooth, strong brakes

If the first three are not all the same strength and feel, and the last one is not noticeably stronger and smooth, then you have a winding problem in your motor.


Yeah sorry should have worded that better i meant had he ran detection on it. My bad its v early over here. :expressionless:

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i figured that’s what you meant, but it needed to be clarified immediately… some people would see that and be like “oh i better do that…” and then poof.

i have a drawer full of poof. lol

Same, lots of paperweights round here. Thanks for that!!

Single, single single.! I made a single IMG_20170930_204406131_HDR|281x499 !

IMG_20170119_201927218 IMG_20170402_132027604 IMG_20170520_105252860_HDR IMG_20180815_201713_769


Hows braking on a single motor with 0 skips?

Thanks @dareno @longhairedboy @b264 I’ll get SK3 6374.

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That’s good, but you could also just verify with a meter. Phase to phase should all have the same resistance and no phase should have a path to ground I.e. the motor case or shaft etc.


Thanks man just glad I didn’t make it worse. 6374 all the way. The sk8 is an option too, I’ve had 3 running for about 6 months. 2 on a dual and one on a single with no issues so far.

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Its a field diagnostic tactic that’s incredibly effective when you don’t have a volt meter on hand. We use this exact method all the time out of laziness because it works so well at determining if the motor is a candidate for The Drawer.

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