Hey guys. I’ve been pondering and wondering how to attach my battery pack to my new board’s deck, but haven’t come up with with a satisfactory solution yet.
I’ve been looking through the “no words, just pictures” thread to see how other people have done it, but I haven’t been able to ascertain, if most of them are just bolted on through the bottom of the case and deck. The deck is quite flexy, as can be seen in the short clip below and I feel that bolting it straight through the deck would transfer a lot of mechanical stress to the deck and pack when the deck flexes. (Deck made by a colleague at work, he can be found @ https://www.instagram.com/pabloboards )
Straps have also been used to tie the pack to the board, but you would have to get them quite tight to stop the pack from being able to move around and then if you use non-elastic material it’s once again putting more stress/squeezing the pack harder when the deck flexes. With an elastic material the flex would be fine, but then at normal shape it wouldn’t hold it as tight…
I’ve also seen other people mention about just using strong velcro on the deck and bottom of the battery pack to stick them together, but I’m sure about the longevity of the adhesives when exposed to multiple wet/dry cycles. I feel like the taped velcro is going to start peeling slowly off with time from the tape side.
I was quite happy with the attachment method, but I wasn’t so happy with the execution though. The drawer handles, just didn’t seem like the proper thing to use, so I decided to look for a better mount for the deck side. I did find much better parts for this from the boating section of another hardware store, so I brought these back.
Why not drill 2 holes on the opposite corners of the box, and just screws thru the deck and leave maybe 2 mm left for the flex, and put some window sealant foam to cover up the vibrations
Part of the decision to go with this style was to eliminate any screw holes going through the bottom of the case into the deck or “avoid putting any unneeded holes into the case”.
Second was to be able to change the pack easily and that meant for me to not have the box attached with screws. I can with this design have 2 battery packs which I can easily change between without any tools.
I could, but then I would have an exposed battery pack when it’s not in the case. I want the pack to be water-resistant, so having the cells be out of the case is a bit no-no.
I’m building a 10S6P 18650 pack in the case, with the BMS integrated into it. There would just be charging port, discharge port and a power button on the outside.
How are you planning on stacking them into the box with that many?
Below is the 2D cad picture I made to figure out how much I can actually get into the case and 11S6P was pretty much max what it could take. I then removed 1 series cell to leave some space at the end for electronics, which then made it the 10S6P as shown below.
23,5 x 18,5 x 7 cm
If i calculate the surface of the box thats 41400mm2 and if I look a 18650 cell as a square and its surface is 18,5 squared that gives me space for 127 cells in the box standing vertically
Thats like a 10P pack there, about to draw that in Autocad to see
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