DIY Boosted Board | Custom Deck | Paris Trucks | SK3 192 kv | Custom Mount | 10S2P | VESC

Hello All,

If you couldn’t tell by the build title, my plan is to make a board copying the design of the Boosted Board. This will be my first e-board build and I have done a decent amount of research and reading on this forum. The only parts i’ve bought so far are paris trucks and Orangatang wheels (same as the boosted board).

As for the rest of my plan:

Battery: 6 x [5000 mAh 2S 20C lipos] wired together as 2 6S packs in series to function as a 12S. As for charging, I plan on charing them as 2 6S packs. I’m also hoping I can install a battery screen reader thing to show me how much juice is left.

Motor: Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 6364-190kv Brushless Outrunner Motor. Not much else to say about this, haven’t seen any bad reviews on Turnigy thus far…

VESC: from Enertion, originally planned on a car ESC but this is the same price and I’ve read a lot about it on this site.

Transmitter: HK-GT2B. Planning on eventually modifying the case to make it smaller once my board is fully functional.

Board: I am making my own deck (2nd time) copying the boosted design

Gears: After using the gear ratio calculators I’m going with a 15 tooth motor wheel and a 36 tooth drive wheel. And following some users tips, an Enertion timing belt.

My plan is to first assemble a dirty board to make sure all the mechanical and electrical parts work well. Then I want to make the final board as slim as possible (thats why I chose 2 cell lips).

I will continually update this build thread as my parts start arriving and as the board gets put together.

Feedback is GREATLY appreciated! Anything at all, I would like to know what you think!

Thanks, Matt


You should have bought kegles instead of in heat wheels because you will have to drill through them and build a jig instead of having the holes already there.

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If you want to make a true copy of bb

Use 26650 batteries Dual drive higher kv sensored Vanguard flex 3 (black grip tape)

Just my input if you’re actually wanting to make a copy

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Boosted uses Caliber trucks too. Since they’re square-ish, you can attach a motor mount without having to deal with welding.

@Chris_KP I considered kegles but I just love the look of the in-heats. I’m hoping drilling through the wheels isn’t a huge deal with the use of a drill press.

@barajabali I am currently siding with lipos because I have no experience with 26650 batteries and it just seems like a lot could go wrong with finding working cells and soldering packs. As well as I want to make a slim board different from the way Boosted laid out their enclosures. I am making my own board to save money. Here’s my blueprint…

@Mrmoonlight I wish I would have noticed that before I bought the paris trucks… I’ll make due, there is a local place that can weld for me.


This could be your chance to learn how to make battery packs it’s really easy once you start

Where do you suggest buying/ finding them from?

We did a group buy for 18650 battery’s from liion whole sale .com or something like that. They sell 26650 too

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If you’re in the states you can easily find Samsung 25R Li-ion 18650 cells for $5 each. A123 makes some high power 26650 LiFePo4 cells too, but they’re twice the price.


those are my favs right now. mmm mmm good.

How are 18650 cells labeled? Compared to lipos… I was looking to have a 12S lipo 5000mAh 20C

If you’re asking how to get comparable specs as that lipo, you’ll need 12 cells (thus the 12S) in series and probably 2 in parallel to reach 5amp hours. This probably won’t reach 20C but should have enough amp output for most boards, especially at 12S.

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Ok if you have any question on drilling wheels ill be happy to help :slight_smile:

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You want to move the battery as close as you can to the front truck, the flexing in the middle of the deck will damage your lipos.

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Very close to switching to 18650 cells vs Lipo. Only thing holding me back is connecting the cells. From what I’ve seen and read everyone uses spot wielding. I don’t own a spot welder. Is it to dangerous to solder the cells together? Or does that create too much heat?

Just finished clamping down the board blank with a concave press. Used 4 x 1/8 in plys of baltic birch and used spray adhesive to temporarily secure the board blueprint.


Finished cutting out the board with a jig saw and cleaned up the edges with a sanding block and a belt sander. Batteries also arrived. I changed my original plan from 12S to 10S with 5 x 2S 5000mAh LiPos. Waiting for the BMS to arrive and I will jump into soldering the packs to the board and making a temporary quick n’ dirty enclosure. Almost every other component I need to buy is on backorder and has been for a month. Also kind of upset VESC price on exertion went up $30. I have a feeling this build is going to hold a lot of waiting for parts to restock and arrive.


Just received most of my battery pack components. Finished soldering all the balance leads to the BMS plug. Just need to connect the main power wires in series to create a 10S pack. Please don’t judge me on the tape job, only temporary to hold everything together and not stress any wires!!!



I want to wire in a voltage reader or a “fuel tank” display and an anti-spark circuit to allow the use of a simple low current switch. Does anyone have any nice diagrams or insite they could share?


This should work. This way the voltemeter will not be connected when the AS is “off” and thus not drain your battery