Hey so i am about to begin my second build and i want to do a slim mountain board (No top mounted electronics like many trampa builds). Also want nice binding less riding so i’m going with a concave stiff deck.
Current part list:
deck custom
2x fsesc 6.6
trampa infinity trucks
idea v1 motor mount
16 teeth motor pulley / might change to 20t
8 inch trampa wheels with 62t pulley
To be decided:
Motors: i have a single d5035 125kv from hobbyking i thinking ill just get another one of those, are these motors any good, haven’t tried the one i have that much?
Battery: im thinking a single stacked 12s4p or 5p depending on how much power and range i think i need, what is the average draw on a trampa build? and if i wanna max out the d5035s ill need a 5p.
Also does any1 have a tips on what concave and width to aim for when making the deck?
The build will most likely start in the end of October after exams by constructing the press. I will update this post as i go and hopefully it wont take too long to finish
Would love to hear you tips and concerns regarding the build, i’m most worried about the deck since i have never seen any1 with a deck like that before, Thanks!
Your deck need to fit the 35degree trucks but i‘m Sure you already considered.
Average draw with dual 6374 is about 20wh on the street 30wh off per km.
With the most enclosures for a tramps deck you limited to 12s4p. So if you want to get 5p you need to make it more wide or long than the holy pro or mount the esc on top.
Yeah the 35 degree edges will be there those wh/km does not seen bad at all. Was planing on doing around 70 cm between the 35 degree edges, did not think about that it might be to short for a single stacked 12s5p. The enlosure will be at least 15cm wide because of the fsescs, what dimensions are possible with a 12s5p with bms? But thanks for pointing that out! Also forgot to write I’m orginal post I’m probably going to do cutouts and my own enclosure
If I remember right, the holy pro is 700mm from corner to corner (the area which you could mount the enclosure).
I think most easy way to make it more wide so that you can fit 10 18650 next to each other.
Would be 200mm for the enclosure pulse what ever you need on the side.
Yeah 10 next to each other should give me a lot of room lengthwise, the board will probably be more than 200mm wide anyway so that would probably be the best solution, think the holy pro is 230 wide
So some progress has been made, i’ve built the press and just pressed the two first sheets and seems to work fine. It’s a bit uneven and ugly but hey so was my last press and that worked out great
So my deck is done, has been for a while but i have a serious lack of time, battery is orderd from acido (12s5p) and after that i have everything but a enclosure. However i plan on milling out the battery space but i only have access to a hand mill. Does any1 have any idea how to use that on a concave surface, build a rig? Flatten the bottom first? Has anyone done this?
Jep, just make straight rails for the router to slide on
You coul fiberglass a segmented enclousure yourself tho. And even place metal plates on the still wet resin to really safeguard against abrasion. Use something inert like wooden block covered in cellotape or upside PE plastic boxes to get the desired shape. Also cover the deck with cellotape for non-stickyness for the resin. And definitely add pigment to resin so that scratches won’t show through so much
When taking the composite method, the easiest and cheapest is to use just some polyester and chopped strand mat, like 450gram/squar emeter one. This mat takes about 1.5-2x the resin of it’s (the mat’s) weight to have nice wet-out. It is better to wet the pieces out on another surface and the place the pieces onto the ‘mould’. Use just a brush to ‘tap’ is nicely in place. You can use small pieces of peelply to smooth out the rough chopped strand mat’s texture and later make finising touches with automotive putty before painting. You could use even topcoat for painting: if you ‘peck’brush’ it on it can leave this rought cast-metal like surface. Even add some fine filler like salt or sugar to the gelcoat to get this ‘Hammerite’ or anti-gravel paint texture effect
The chopped strand mat becomes very bendy and fragile after the resin has melted it’s styrene based ‘glue’ that holds it together so you need to wait maybe 30seconds after wetting before it is best to ‘brush’ it down and in place. You wet out and place all mat pieces, like 2-3 layers before tapping it down. If you choose to go with some 200-300gram/square meter roving you don’t need to wait but with rovings it’s also best to pre wet the little peices on another surface before placing them onto the mould
