I’m in. 10cha
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C’mon we all know your duck pics collections
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AWWW SHIT DID SOMEBODY SAY DUCK PICS?!?!
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Really wanna make this. Didn’t even see the camping part before
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So… Dumb dumdumdum Hourly rate at the go kart place is $2k. I doubt that’s gonna happen. Back to the drawing board. Maybe I should just focus on making cool boards.
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I think that would be best
Don’t be discouraged. There will be a way to skin this cat
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Well, I’m back from an hour at the drawing board. We have SO many molds which would make amazing eskates, but these are two which came to the top of my mind. This is a cat I can skin in various ways. I think we could sink batteries deeper into the deck by using the CNC, and adding a layer of carbon or fiberglass onto the bottom of the board with a vacuum bag, but for now, I’m assuming the first few we do will be wood only, and thus they have minimal bottom flycuts, both about 3 16ths of an inch deep, which turns out to make for a nice flat section on the bottom of the board for battery cases. You might ask why i don’t want to just use a concave that has 5-6" of flat in the middle, and the answer to that is because boards like that are not to my liking. I think these boards must be better at performing during scary moments, swerving hard, ect, because that’s when your life is on the line. These molds have been designed first for DH and freeriding. They’ll work great even with another .25" or more of riser and large wheels.
One thing to mention with both of these molds is that w concave can be added anywhere inside the middle 24" or so inches of the platform in any height and width (up to about 4-5" wide). Our molding process allows for this. We use one sided molds (female only) and have 6 of these presses. We do have 2 hydro m/f presses, we use on boards when needed, but both of these molds are very amicable to pressing without the male side.
Another point to mention is that we can use any shape with either of these files, and to a degree, wheel base can be adjusted. Below are pics of each mold surface in CAD. If you want a full top mount, cut out shape, ect. All can be done. The sky is the limit, but the main point is that the ground work has been laid.
Well, here are the two. This first one is a board we’ve been making for about 7 years called the Droptop. It started out as a longer deck, and we’ve brought it down to something like 37". The mold has changed over time. The owner of Pantheon boards and I had a discussion about this drop style which I give him credit for making. I am a gentleman and I said I’d never do this drop style in any wheel bases that he offers. Right now we have an agreement that I’ll do stuff over 31" and he’ll do stuff from what ever his ember is, up to 31". Cheers to him. The wheel base is 31" and the riding platform is over 26" depending on how much of your foot ends up in/on the drop.
.625" drop
Between .5 and .625" concave depending on width of the deck.
baby kicktails if you want to make the board wider.
Here’s a shape with slot through truck mounting config.
The battery area as pictured here is 6" x 26".
The next mold I want to show you is one I cut last week. It is a 5th or 6th iteration of a board we made back in 2012 called the doobie. This mold can have any wheel base from 30" down to 26" with the use of flush mounting. Mild rocker, elliptical concave, and microdrops, roughly 24-25" effective foot platform. This mold has sizable kicks, and I encourage it. I don’t know how many of you have ever ridden manuals on your eskates, but I’d guess it is very few given what I’ve seen out there board wise… On the right size kick, this experience is a must for me both for acceleration and braking. This kicktail is 7" long at the outer WB, and 7.5 at the inner. I imagine it will feel great with huge wheels and risers.
The battery area as pictured here ranges from 6.8" wide to 5.5" wide and is 25" long.
The eskate I am going to build for myself will likely have the above deck. I’m going with very low angle rear baseplate and something at or above 50 for the front. Have you ever manualled a board with 20 degree rear plates? When you’re at full tilt, the truck in rear is at about a zero ° angle, and it is SO easy to control at speed.
Come at me bro.
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That bottom deck is money. How do we sign up?
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Gonna talk about single units for now, as reselling is a whole different ball of wax, but it is possible, specially if we’re doing a bunch at once. So if someone were to buy say 5 or 10 boards, we’d be talking about a sliding scale price matrix. Discounts for shops are available, and we can even talk about doing more if anyone out there has demand for such. Prices can be really low for these, but as a ‘factory’ we’ve always struggled living off of and resupplying the shop with OEM business only.
Per deck clearcoated, bare, with maybe an engraved Drang logo somewhere, (Doobie mold) in 9 ply configuration would be about $150 gripped n shipped inside the USA with flush mounts, wheel wells, and battery cut. We can talk about custom battery enclosure dimensions. That would be the price for basically any shape in this mold with those routes. Smaller decks will fetch a lower price. This doobie is 42" as pictured.
The Droptop is a deck usually done with no wheel wells, or flush mounts, so that price would be $140 gripped n shipped (domestic price only).
Different ply counts and materials used change the price. We can use carbon fiber, fiberglass, or specialty veneer, of which we have a grundle.
Overseas shipping can be as low as 50 and as high as 120 if you want DHL to bring it to you in under 4 days world wide. Usually 1-2 days to canada, and some other countries.
Any out of the box ideas?
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Thoughts on a group buy? Set amount of decks. No extras. All the same. I’d be up for helping organize one for US buyers. Im a pro at convincing other forum members they NEED somthing lol
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Also means you can ship all your decks at once to one destination e.g Europe. And that person ships the decks out to the people who paid
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Yes he is! I have surfrodz now because of this guy 
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love this deck man… defo my style.
but i need them in qty of 500+
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I’d love to learn more about this, how can you apply enough pressure top side if you don’t have a male mold?
And how can you add “W” concave, the female mold needs to be modified to achieve this?
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don’t play like that.
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