Would there be much difference between a 10s4p and a 12s3p
I kinda want that extra range but It sounds like its not worth the hassle so I might do the 12s3p
12s3p will also give more range than a 10s3p and the board will be more fun to ride. But the 12s3p made of NCR20700A would be my choice
I would be using the mocheil cellls from the flash sale I got 40.
It would be a single drive 6384 200kv (From DickyHo) 15/36 on 90mm wheels and Im hopping I can get at least 15 miles of range.
Ill sleep on it and decide between 12s3p and 10s4p
Im in a similar boat, I thought the 10s4p would give more range, please let me know what you decide and why @yelnats8j @Eboosted Also look at this thread
A 12s4p is the perfect battery, it will also give you more range than a 10s4p and will accelerate way faster, people always think than going 12s vs 10s will make your board to ride at extreme speeds that’s not correct at all, I regularly read people comments saying “I’m not going 12s because I don’t plan to run insane speeds”, as if the only variable to run fast is the battery and nothing more.
You could run a really fun board by going 12s and using a really high gear reduction. For instance, on my Sidekick I run 12s5p on 2:1 gear ratio, 190kv motors and 85mm Caguamas, max speed is 51km/hr and the full throttle acceleration puts a smile on my face everyday.
3 Likes
What about the strain of 12s on the VESC?
Old mith. Get a unity or Focbox and forget about strain forever
1 Like
Fair enough, im doing my first build, trying to keep it cheap, spending about $60 on a 4.12 VESC, does that mean i should stick with the 10s4p and for a next build where I can afford a FOC go with the 12?
Spend 40-50 more on a Focbox and use it forever, USD 50 of savings are not worth the subpar experience you will get by going 10s on blds vs 12s on FOC plus lifetime reliability
1 Like
The only reason Im considering 10s is I already have a 12s board. Save up the extra money go 12s and never go back from it.
If you have the $130 for a FOCbox and the cells go for it. I’m trying to keep my board mid range and 10s is the safer and cheaper option
Are you going single drive or dual?
It’s not a myth; the DRV8302 is only rated at 60V. On applications like this, real engineers never push the parts past 60% to 75% which means 42V, especially driving highly inductive loads (like BLDC motor windings) using square waves (like VESC)
Of course, if it’s your face that might hit the street on any malfunctions, you are free to design yours however you’d like to.
2 Likes
You are right, it’s not a myth is very frecuent problem found on some 4.12 VESCs when used at 12S and FOC, so my mistake. Nevertheless, from my own experience and several others, I’ve been pushing FocBoxes for years at 12S and never had any single DRV8302 error to the point I feel pretty confident and happy to suggest people with doubts about going between 10S in BLDC to 12S in FOC, to choose the latest.
My face already hit the streets but it was not because a malfunction caused by designing 12S and FOC on a FocBox, in fact it was a malfunction in BLDC and 10S on my old vanguard.
3 Likes
Most of us are not real engineers, we are tinkerers and crazy people we push things to the extreme
1 Like
No electrical engineer in their right mind would ship those parts running those voltages as a commercial product.
Maybe as something you build at home, and it’s only your own arse at risk.
4 Likes
Just devils advocating here… but…
DRV8302 Spec maxes at 60V Assuming TI’s Electrical Engineers are ‘Real Engineers’ which means that they would also apply the 60-75% max rule to their component when specc’ing.
Wouldn’t that mean that the DRV8302’s real max is 80-100v? Which would also mean that if you took 60-75% off the 60v… you’d really be at like 30-40 percent of the ‘real max’ rating?
2 Likes
What about the raptor 2? Is she running on 10s?..sorry for not knowing right now:blush:
Yes, 10s4p of 18650’s if I remember correctly.
1 Like