I replaced the 1.5 meepo hubs with the newest 100mm NLS hubs and matching front wheels. Acceleration and top speed felt on par or better. Braking strength had a noticeable increase which I liked. Felt ever so slightly more stable/confident with the larger wheels. Meepo v2 ESC and 11s3p samsung 30q battery.
I employ a similar learning process.
The same esc before and after the 90 to 100mm motor swaps? I’m looking to do the same but wasn’t sure if my the new larger motors would be “chuggy” on the old esc. Did you experience rough starts? and is braking nice and smooth? Cheers! Don
Same V2 ESC. Keep in mind I have an 11s3p battery so my top speed is going to be slightly higher. Smooth starts and strong brakes. Of course the V2 ESC is to blame for braking and acceleration but I’m pretty satisfied with the ride. I have a Unity on the way.
I would recommend the 100mm wheels of you want a very slight comfort increase and a moderate stability increase. Very pleased and they run quiet.
Shoulder healing up well. I was able to install the Unity and go for a test ride. The guided setup was very intuitive and the process was easy. I’ve never used a VESC or programmable ESC before.
I paired the Unity with a mini remote and the 100mm Meepo hub motors. I am blown away by the level of control and power this ESC offers. Motor min/max = 50amps; battery min/max = 16/45amps. I also have the speed limited via erpm for 24mph. Not trying to reinjure myself at 30mph through my own stupidity.
Here’s some differences from the old ESC I noted:
Very happy with the FOCBOX Unity. I was pleasantly surprised by the mini remote’s performance as I’ve never used a trigger remote before. Might pick up a Flipsky VX1 in the summer but this mini remote gave a damn good first impression. I am so happy that I have endless customization options and so much data to look at. Unfortunately, the pragmatic part of me knows I will not be riding often for another few months.
Lastly, one more shout-out to @Eboosted for helping me get a replacement enclosure after the wreck and to @b264 for the countless times he recommended the mini remote.
I’m glad I was able to help a brotha!
Currently doing PT because of the accident. Still have a ways to go.
Anyways, something happened to my battery and I have decided to make a new one soon. I have been looking through threads about cell options and can’t seem to decide between 18650 and 21700.
My setup is:
I would greatly appreciate any input about which cells to use and what format (XsYp config and 21700 vs 18650).
Finally finished my 10s4p 30q pack with a D140 charge only. This will be my 3rd battery and it’s so much better built than the previous ones. I hope it will last me a long time. Now I just need to fine tune my Unity settings and go tear up the streets!
How many amps are you pushing to the hubs? I just got a pair of 100mm NLS hubs and was pretty surprised at how thin the wires are. I’m thinking 12S would be be better than increasing the amperage. I am going to open them up and see how hard it would be to resolder thicker lead wires to them.
I used to push 45 Batt and 50 Motor, bumped it up with 50 Batt and 60 Motor and shorted one of the hubs.
I just finished my 10s4p and have it set to 30 Batt and 35 Motor. I don’t think I would set it much higher than that. I definitely plan on tinkering with it but I’m pretty happy with this setup. Unity can obviously handle a lot more but the hubs are the limiting factor here.
I haven’t ever opened up the hubs to the point where I could see the PCB so if you do please document the process 
Will do my best, haven’t internally modified a motor before so I’m not really sure what I’m in for but, may as well give it a look when I’m swapping from the 90mm PU’s to the 100mm ones. Do you know where the short occurred?
Unfortunately, I do not. Someone with more expertise would have to chime in and guess whether it is more likely that the wire coating melted or the heat from the core caused the solder to melt (if that’s even possible). I suppose I kinda answered myself there haha.
If I had to guess, replacing the wires with some quality 14 gauge would allow you to bump up the motor amps without risk of a short but the extra heat will certainly degrade the magnets. At least you can replace the sleeves with fresh magnets!
Hey just wanted to let you know that I went on a 7 mile ride with the 30 Batt and 35 Motor config and the motors were pretty hot. There are no temperature sensors but I could only touch them for a less than a quarter of a second. I am 150lbs and this was flat ground doing up to 29mph. I don’t think I’ll be changing the settings to be more powerful than this but I might play around with a lower batt max and a higher motor max.
This 10s4p 30q is amazing! I did 7 miles with 75% battery remaining on the Enertion App.
Niceee, gonna have to put the hub tear down on standby for now. I got a couple of batter orders in I need to fulfill first. And make myself a 12S2P 30Q pack for this, my flipsky VESC is taking quite some time to get here tho…
However I have been mathing it out and I’m going to start with 25A motor continuous on 12S to see what the heat is like. Meepo apparently doesn’t care if heat damages the motors since they believe you only see small losses in power over a long period of time and they’re more concerned with the riding experience. I’m going to be a little more cautious than this but we’ll see lol
Hello. Nice build. I am awaiting delivery of an NLS Pro myself and was considering upgrading it as well. Is the Unity still a big upgrade from the Pro’s HW Esc? What type of performance gains do you get from upgrading the ESC and pushing more amps?
Thanks in advance.
Hi, thank you for looking at my board and for your question!
What type of performance gains do you get from upgrading the ESC and pushing more amps?
Simple put it’s more powerful, so more torque and faster acceleration. The NLS Pro HW ESC is rated for 1080W while I run my setup at 1500W so about a third more power. You can go higher but the motors are the bottleneck for me and I don’t want to short out another motor.
I upgraded from the V2 ESC so I also had a top speed increase of about 3-4 mph. On the new NLS Pro the top speed seems to be “unlocked” or “not limited” so I don’t know how much improvement you would see there. I also wanted a smoother throttle profile but the HW ESC is pretty good in that regard.
Thanks for your response. Very informative. How noticeable is the 40% increase in power? Does it translate into significant more torque? I assume there is some diminishing returns going on. Trying to find out if I think it is worthwhile to swap.
The way I have it set up it has equal startup torque to a Boosted V2+ (rider @ 200lbs and me @ 150lbs) and pulls much harder up to 29mph so that’s all I have as a reference. I don’t think swapping from the HW ESC would be as noticeable as swapping from a V2/V3 ESC but you could definitely squeeze out some more power especially if you had the ER battery.
If you seek significant midrange torque improvement you will get it through a VESC swap but I haven’t had a chance to try an NLS Pro so I don’t know how good it is. Personally, I don’t think it would be worth it at least until your warranty expires.
Current (and likely final) setup is 10s4p 30q @1800W and its loads more fun that my old board or the BB V2. Any more power I think risks overheating the motors.
Thanks for your insight. You could always reach out to Carvlabs and ask them about how much power is safe before you risk overheating. I know they put heat sensors into the Meepo hubs, so they should have a lot more knowledge. Although 1800W sounds like it is plenty.
Never thought about that, I’ll check out their stats. Always happy to help