Hi Guys, Just wanted to give some thanks to Jacob for all his time and effort for the Hubs. Not an easy task to make your own Hubs and sell them to the community. Regardless of how it has all went
On the other hand, I have a pair of JacoHubz for sale. Unused - One has literally been ridden for like 5 mins, but then taken off. Haven’t really been able to test them properly.
Im in the UK
Hi guys, I have a set of @jacobbloy hubs that I’ve just got around to taking out of the box for a new build. I want to visually inspect the stators and the windings before I commence - anybody want to give me a quick lesson on how to pull them apart?
just take the black caps off - I see you have already removed the screws.
Don’t be surprised: the wire is really super thin
Also be careful with the sharp wheel edges. Had one wheel accidentally spin on the weekend when my hand was close and got cut 
Just a quick question. How difficult would it be to change that thin wire for thicker, more sturdy ones?
Thanks @Maxid, I tried to gently lever off the black caps, but they seemed pretty well stuck on (possibly some Loctite?). I didn’t want to damage them, so that’s why I though I had better ask.
Do you need to remove the urethane first to get the black caps off?
The other way around: to take the urethane off you will need to take off the cap first.
Got it - thanks.
Wow, they are so finely machined it is a real effort to slide the caps off. There’s some real precision there in how the parts fit together.
Inspected the magnets and wirings and all seems in order. Going to add some extra heat shrink to the phase wires and will apply the double sided tape to the hub barrel to try and stop the slipping issue. If that doesn’t work, I’ll look at putting in the additional ridges between the ‘nubs’.
Did you get a refund?
hmm, I dont like how the phase wires are loosely wound around the stator there. just looks like it would rub the enamel off and short out very soon. is that meant to be like that @jacobbloy ?
i would probably coat the exit phase wires in something sturdy 
At some point, I’ll do a simulation and see if we can rewind the motors to better deal with heat.
Currently many strands of 0.19mm wire. I’ll see how many strands of 18ga we can fit for torque.
That’s how I protect the phases going to the VESCs. Also I gave an extra heatshrink tube to the place where the phases come out of the motor.
an easy test is on the bldc tool checking the resistance and inductance. the vesc is super accurate with those. maybe dribble some high heat epoxy on the wires as they dont look to have anything holding them in the motor
Has anyone shipped the motors back to Jacob in Australia. I got quote from usps for $85 shipping. What company ships cheaper?
Can you give me the weight and dimension of the package? I’m thinking of returning it too, and I’m trying to use this website called “ShipGooder” to compare prices.
The box that they come in is 14 x 11.5 x 4.5 inches. And the weight I think is 8.5lbs
Idk if I’ll ship the box in another box or probably a shipping bag
USPS came out to be the cheapest for me at $88.
Try ship2anywhere
Guys i’ve been trying a new pair of these jacob motors with the dual setup and they are good.
If you use them as is out of the box I can’t say they will work good since even with the dual setup i experience the urethane slip. I quick fix is removing one of the caps and using a high temp structural grade epoxy on the surface between the motor and the urethane. Using retaining fluid on the aluminum where it meets the motor and bearing also helps keep it tight together.
The motor wire outputs will crack off the place where they are soldered into the banana plug. Better heat shrink and a dab of epoxy fixes it nicely.
Hopefully we see some upgrades in this design in the future and larger diameter urethane.
