Gnd, 5v (usually 3.3v with flipsky), Rx, TX… is what I would say. But I have no ideas on that. Is that like a Bluetooth module like flipsky? Or is that supposed to be the remote’s?
But it would go on the 8 pin connector slot of the esc.
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This is a bluetooth module that came with the Maytech "MTSKR20WFV2 " dual trigger controller.
There’s a more detailed picture with the pinouts on that site. So on the chip there are the following pins.
3-pins (on top of picture above) (a 30V 3A relay switch) (I presume I won’t use this at all)
- OPE
- COM
- CLO
3-pins (bottom of picture, next to the 7-pin grouping) (is it necessary to use any of these?)
- BAT (BATT+)
- MOT (one of 3 wire motors)
- SWI (20V 2A transistor switch)
7-pins (bottom of picture) (I presume I’ll be connecting at least 4 of these to the VESC)
- GND (black; connects to GND (VESC “pin 3”)
- 5V (red; connects to 5V (VESC “pin 1”)
- PWM_T
- PWM_R (no use)
- TXD (color?; connects to RX (VESC “pin 5”)
- RXD (color?; connects to TX (VESC “pin 6”)
- HALL
VESC 8-pin connectors (it has 2 sets of these, but I’ll be connecting to 1 grouping of course)
- 5V
- 3.3V
- GND
- AD1
- RX
- TX
- A2
- A3
Picture of VESC to show pins on it.
Okay so this might sound tricky, but you’re basically soldering the wires based on this pic and the esc:
To explain: pwm would be the 3 pin. And RX/TX will go RX/RX TX/TX if your rx and tx aren’t working right, first check it out in vesc tool and make sure your esc is set for ppm ad uart. If that doesn’t fix it, switch the RX and TX wires. It happened to me.
Everything else isn’t really needed unless you want to see a few extra stuff.
Batt wire goes on the + or usually red side of the battery and motor current isn’t normally used, neither is hall.
If its an 8 pin connector, all you’re using is the rx and TX, so just only have these two on the 8 pin and just connect that. Pwm will fit the red black and white ofc.
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Alright so I’ll connect these as follows.
BT_Module <--------------------------> VESC
- GND (solder black wire) <----------> GND (in 3-pin JST already)
- 5V (solder red wire) <----------------> 5V (in 3-pin JST already)
- PWM_T (solder white wire) <-------> PWM (in 3-pin JST already)
I’ll connect this to the 3 pins on the top of the picture of the VESC. Kind of sitting behind the USB cable in the picture.
BT_Module <-----------------------------------> VESC
- TXD (in 3-pin jumper) <-----------------------> RX (in 3-pin jumper)
- RXD (in 3-pin jumper) <----------------------> TX (in 3-pin jumper)
- HALL (will remove wire) x--------------------x TX (will remove wire)
I’ll go with what the instructions recommend (TX to RX; RX to TX) and just mess around with it if it doesn’t work.
For the BATT+ on the bluetooth PCB. I definitely want this. How/where would you recommend I connect this to the positive battery circuit?
Thanks again man. I really appreciate this. 
It would be on the red wire of your antispark switch (out) side. Close to the esc. Just solder it right on the wire after exposing the copper contact.
The rest is correct. Pwm (3 pin) and your RX/TX port is fine as well since you’re putting them where your USB connection is (that would be your main side of your esc).
You should be able to start testing if it all works after the setup.
Edit: oh the set up part is gonna be annoying if you don’t know a lot about vesc tool.
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Roger that. I’ll cut the anti-spark wrap just enough to solder a wire to the exposed positive contact, on the esc/out side and I’ll solder the z-side to the BATT+ pin on the bluetooth PCB. Is there a minimum gauge wire I should use to do this? Can I just use 1 of these leads provided with the VESC?
I’m excited and nervous as to whether or not it will all work. I was able to successfully power up the VESC and connect to VESC Tool, but I didn’t want to fuck with it yet. Getting close though!!!
The wire that comes with it is fine. It’s like installing a battery indicator. Same wire guage.
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Bolted the VESC directly onto the thermal patch through the metal plate cover. I only used 2 bolts, neoprene washers and quite a bit of red loctite. I hope it holds from all the vibration. Think I’ll just use pneumatic wheels at first to reduce that if I get this running again.
Instead of soldering directly to the bluetooth chip I just soldering the wires and shrinking together. Bluetooth side used .1" pitch while the VESC side used a smaller pitch.
It was a bitch soldering the voltage monitoring wire to the anti-spark switch positive terminal (out side). I could not get it to solder to the surface. I ended up cutting out a small patch of the shrink wrap on the XT90 connector (out side on antispark switch close to VESC) and then just putting electrical tape over it. Not very confident in it, but we’ll see.
Going to hook up to VESC Tool tomorrow. Going to be reading up on it tonight. Looks a bit complicated. Hopefully I can get through that without bugging you. 
Was looking at this tutorial which seems a little old, but not sure how much has changed.
I’ll primarily reference these documents from VESC Project.
https://vesc-project.com/node/178
Quite a bit in there over my head I’m sure I’ll be back tomorrow.
I guess firmware is good?
I chose “medium outboard motor (750g)” for the motor type.
For battery type: LION. Cell series:12 (It’s 12S3P) Capacity: 9Ah (3Ah * 3 = 9Ah… is this correct?)
Do I hit “Run Detection (No CAN)” or “Run Detection”?
Should I worry about setting the advanced settings?
Just to note. This is a 12S3P OEM pack from Onsra. I believe it has Samsung 30Q batteries. Who knows what kind of BMS is in this thing.
Manufact. Specs:
3.0. Nominal specifications
Item Specification
3.1 Nominal discharge capacity
3,000mAh
Charge: 1.50A, 4.20V,CCCV 150mA cut-off,
Discharge: 0.2C, 2.5V discharge cut-off
3.2 Nominal voltage 3.6V
3.3 Standard charge CCCV, 1.50A, 4.20 ± 0.05 V, 150mA cut-off
3.4 Rapid charge CCCV, 4A, 4.20 ± 0.05 V, 100mA cut-off
3.6 Charging time Standard charge : 180min / 150mA cut-off
Rapid charge: 70min (at 25°C) / 100mA cut-off
3.7 Max. continuous discharge
(Continuous) 15A(at 25°C), 60% at 250 cycle
3.8 Discharge cut-off voltage
End of discharge 2.5V
3.9 Cell weight 48.0g max
3.10 Cell dimension Height : 64.85 ± 0.15mm
Diameter : 18.33 ± 0.07mm
3.11 Operating temperature
(surface temperature)
Charge : 0 to 50°C
(recommended recharge release < 45°C)
Discharge: -20 to 75°C
(recommended re-discharge release < 60°C)
3.12 Storage temperature
(Recovery 90% after storage)
1.5 year -30~25°C(1*)
3 months -30~45°C(1*)
1 month -30~60°C(1*
All is good. Just run detection. “No can” just means no dual activation, which you will be using. After you do the set up for your motors and remote, you will have to change some of the settings in the app side to better adjust your board.
The advanced setting should be adjusted after your basic set up.
Looks like it’s not detecting my motors. Not very verbose with error info. Is vesc tool saying that the 3 connections (bullet connectors) coming from each motor are bad?
That probably means that the hall sensor wire isn’t properly installed. Usually the simple fix is to just switch some of them. I think it’s due to how the motors are using the sensor (which is rare since it usually don’t matter)
Try running sensorless first to see. If I fails, it would be the motor connection. Did you change anything else in advance? Because you didn’t need to.
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So just to confirm. The “hall sensors” are the 3 wires (H1, H2, H3) connected to the VESC in that 6-pin JST connector right?
I did not change any settings at all before doing anything. It’s possible the old JST connectors are not making good contact with the male VESC pins, since I’m using the old/original JST connector which I snapped off a clip…
I think I’ll just solder the wires directly together with the provided JST connector/harness and try again. 
Yes that’s correct. I thought you’ve done the changes already. Hopefully it works this time.
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I soldered and shrink wrapped the wires directly together yesterday. I got the exact same error. What else could I try? Perhaps upload some different firmware to the VESC? Maybe I should try running the FOC setup wizard with the bluetooth receiver disconnected?
No, the firmware is properly updated. I would try sensorless set up first on foc to see if you get this same error as before, meaning take off the sensor wires and try to run the set up. If you do, check to see if you connected your vesc to the pc by pressing the connect button. I don’t know why, but this was an issue before for FOC mode.
But try sensorless mode. If it works, then it’s the sensor wires. If the motors still isn’t detected, check to see you have it connected by pressing the connect button.
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I disconnected sensor wires only and ran again. Same error. I saw there was an updated vesc_tool and tried on that as well. Same thing. I’m beginning to think this vesc is no good. Sent an email to makerx 5 days ago and they haven’t even responded.
Anything else I can try? Maybe update with different firmware? The updated vesc_tool (3.01) was warning me my firmware was old. Considering buying another VESC now just so it’s here by Spring… lol 
I saw a negative post on reddit in regards to a DV6 saying they are garbage, etc. I just sent an email to [email protected] and got an email bounce. I think I got ripped off.