Ive decided on making an Electric longboard to get to and from school with ease. and here is the final outcome.
Some parts I used will DEFIANTLY be swapped out later on!
For the rear assembly I used
1X A 218mm truck from street-wing.com
1X Street wing motor mount
1X Turnigy SK3 149kv (getting swapped later will update once i have done it)
1X Turnigy ESK8 Wheel and Pulley kit. (Don’t Buy This Piece of crap kit, Its horrible, I will swap it to AT soon anyway because of the rubbish roads we have here in the UK)
1X 1/8 risers (as with this road you can’t ride without some sort of dampening or u will get numb feet)
MBoards 7s2p (will be upgraded shortly)
Streetwing RC Controller
Tunigy SK3 149Kv
you probably want an anti spark switch in that too! I couldn’t get one in time and now they are out of stock so I use an anti spark XT-90 to be quick and save any components from harm… You really have some sort of spark eliminator in your circuit.
Here is the wiring diagram:
By the way a message to any new builders reading this please, remember to use the correct settings for your Focbox! I’ve killed one and trust me it hurts! Its not hard to kill one either! one wrong move and it’s done. Also No matter what anyone says don’t use anything other than BLDC tool for a FocBox, it can be downloaded from Enertions website!
I have a battery meter in my drop through! I don’t use drop through deck normally however if you have one u can do this!
I have to shout out Luke Pepper from street-wing.com as this build wouldn’t have turned out as well as it did without his help. He is having a Black-Friday sale right now so defiantly check him out at street-wing.com
Please let me know if you have any suggestions for my build, because I aiming to slowly improve this board bit by bit!
Why turnigy pulley is no Bueno?
first of all
they supply rubbish bearings that seize up
then the hubs literally denigrate
and any sort of pressure when putting in bolts they strip super easily.
basically a death trap
its a bad buy for me
You will definitly want to swap the motors because for 7s you should have a higher KV rating 149 would be more for a 12s battery. I disagree with the bldc tool for focbox I had a hall sensor that would not detect in the bldc tool no matter what i tried switched to ack’s esc tool and after updating the firmware worked like a charm in foc.
hi, thanks for the reply
I will defiantly upgrade the motor and the battery, probably 10s5p
Didn’t work in BLDC tool? Hmm thats strange, well at least u didn’t use vesc tool because thats the wrong firmware. I have learnt that the hard way a focbox later.
esc tool is a retooled vesc tool plenty of people here use the it and have been fine. There is the chance that you loaded the firmware version and that can cause issues.
people can do what they want, I’m staying away from anything but BLDC tool as it is recommended by enertion for the focbox, it works fine for me. simple as that
Fellow UKer here, I’m thinking of making one for the same purpose, I like how compact you got it, is it all in that box? And how much did it cost around in total?
yes, everything is in the small enclosure. It cost me about £760 in total but could have defiantly done it cheaper if I had changed a few things. I think a good board won’t really get cheaper than £700
Ah ok, I picked up 2 hubs for £50, from the Onan x2, so 1000w and im looking for a cheap esc atm, my battery is from laptop batteries so I splashed out on a fibre glass deck that came with independent trucks for £70
wow! sounds like a good deal u found for a fibreglass deck send me a link pease. when making a battery please make sure all your cells are at the same level of charge and that u carry out multiple checks on them for example discharge fully and charge fully and see if they heat up a lot. and get a bms. but sounds like u know what your doing with you’re battery. I can’t recommend the focbox enough! just when doing duels it can get pricey. don’t go cheap or u might end up with laggy ones, and its not fun when it happens at high speed. good luck with your build
Why are you still swapping that motor if you’re gonna go with a 10s battery? Want to run sensored?
Sk3 motors are considered decent motors from what I’ve seen.
yes I want sensored and a higher Kv rating
It was second hand, and I have read and watched for hours on batteries, don’t worry about me but I’m glad for your concern. I might get the winboard esc or the ownboard waterproof one. They seem decent enough right? I’m not going to get a vesc because I don’t care enough about changing the firmware and everything.
yeah, if you don’t want a vesc, get the onownboard waterproof one, it should work fine
Please do not use laptop cells, unless you are going to use them in a 10s10p setup. Anything less will sag A LOT and probs catch fire from over heating. Side note, build the pack properly don’t solder it like some, this is a high power battery
yeah if its a first build probably don’t use laptop cells, better to get a professional with qualifications and equipment to do it and use high quality and high discharge 18650 30q cells
Hello, try not to sound so patronising next time, I have read up and watched up as I said in my previous response, the batteries I’m using have been tested thoroughly and are close to unused, do you not think I know it is a high powered battery? And I’m not soldering, I’m using VRUZUND as I don’t have a spot welder.
I’m used to a 7s1p 2.2Ah setup, I will be using a 7s maybe 3p, which will get me to maybe 22kmh, which will not strain the cells which are rated up to 8A, 11A burst. I’m not stupid, I won’t push them too far. I understand the limits of them.
sorry man not trying to come across rude. I’ve heard of VRUZUND and at a point in the build i planned on using it too. however it is easy for cell to come loose with vibrations with the kit. however li-ions can be dangerous so i wouldn’t recommend it. better safe than sorry