Evolve Bamboozled GT | Evolve | Dual Drive | Belt Drive | Metr | 6374 | 10s3p | AT | Unikboards | Eskating.eu

While building my “Boosted” Clone last year I had the idea to make an Evolve Bamboo board, now that idea is finally going to be put to works!

This project will be a long ongoing project since I’m not getting paid enough anymore to be able to put money aside to this hobby so I most likely will be limited to buying a part a month… :frowning:

My plan is to build a board that looks exactly like a Bamboo GT But! Way more powerful, better water sealed better range and best of all way more reliable! And as a bonus a lot cheaper!

My goals are to obtain a good 22mph with insane torq! So hills wouldn’t be a problem even though we don’t really have that here in Denmark or at least where I live.

A good minimum of 14 but most likely a good 20-mile range (Should last me a day).

And one thing is not having to care about curbs! I cant drive down curbs without having to check my belt covers or motor mounts to see if I ruined them so this one is kinda important.

The parts I’m aiming for:

Evolve Bamboo GT Deck: heavy_check_mark: Evolve Bamboo GT Enclosure: heavy_check_mark: Evolve Bamboo GT Front and Rear truck Dual Vesc 4.12 / Dual Focbox: heavy_check_mark: (Currently dual Vesc 4.12 10S3P Battery pack made out of Samsung 30Q Cells Eskating.eu 190KV 6374 3550W Motors: heavy_check_mark: (Got one out of two) MBS 100mm Wheels Black: heavy_check_mark: Pulley + Motor mounts from Evolve or/and Unikboards Antispark Switch with a round button so it fits inside the original Evolve hole Bone red Bearings: heavy_check_mark: Firefly Remote Metr Bluetooth module: heavy_check_mark:

I already know most of the challenges im going into but more will come down the road, the holes for the wires are just big enough for the phase wires so will have to make something for the sensor cable as well, the enclosure is not big enough for anything so a riser out of foam is already made.

I haven’t seen anyone do this before with Evolve Bamboo parts, so interesting to see how it turns out.

Any feedback or help is welcome.

I will try to update everytime i get some major progress done, and explain what ive done so people in the future can look at this post since i know for a fact theres other people planning on doing this as well :slight_smile:


Doing exactly the same (idea since March 2017), however, using 6384s instead of 6374s and a 10s4p pack!

1 Like

I wonder what you are planning to do with the included heatshrink ? The enclosure was sold to you without the cover ?

1 Like

Yep no cover, going to get it machined by a friend after i made a test fitment with a 3dprinted version! Made one out of wood and a layer of foam and paint i can use, for now, seals it perfect but not the best looking solution


Okay looks like i might not be able to do this project or any other project any time soon at all…

My pis poor soldering skills just ruined my vescs, i was as careful as i could be but yet due to how bad my soldering iron is solder dripped onto the smd parts and i have no way to get it off so now im here with broken vescs and no way to replace them due to lack of funds.

Unless i can sell my premade boards i have to call it, it for now.

Get some solder wick/copper braid. Heat the braid on top of the solder and it should get rid of the spill. Similar thing happened to me just yesterday.

Already tried, the soldering iron is so bad that it cant heat it up and its super unstable temps… :frowning:

:pensive: I feel, if there solder gets on a grounded pin, the thermal mass gets too large to heat well I think. If you ever get the chance, get a hot air gun to heat the area, and just poke the solder carefully with wick. Hot air seems to be way more reliable at heating stubborn parts like that.

Managed to sell my old board, and now get the last money together.

Now the hard part is just getting those damn trucks since the DE website dosnt have them.