This for instance? http://www.myrcmart.com/rcx-3in1-battery-balancer-discharger-voltage-indicator-150w-discharging-p-4767.html Not trying to be too cheap with important stuff, i just don’t have too big a budget… When you say full voltage, what voltage are you referencing? Ill take your advice with the mini trigger and the anti spark switch, but i dont understand what you said about 6s not being enough, the motors say they max out at 6 cells, so I’m kind of confused. I’m willing to go over 6s and just configure the max speed in the vesc, if that’s what will solve the problem, although honestly I’m unsure as to what that problem is (still a newbie, sorry if I’m being ignorant)
why motors put a max voltage …makes no sense. amps make a motor hot so they are the real limit. the only other limit would be the speed the bearings can go and its true that with smaller motors they generally have a higher kv so will go faster per volt…or you could get higher spinning bearings even. I wouldn’t worry about it. the enamel on the wire is good for surely way more voltage. I mean full voltage of your complete battery. you can bulk charge it and use the balance dischargers on the cells to monitor and discharge balance. theyre slow and its safer just to charge each cell to 4.1 to give headroom just incase. the discharger you linked has additional bulbs that can be added to increase the discharge rate to 150watts. I have those but they’re a pain and require a certain plug but they might be good for you. Some people think bulk charging and side balancing is too complicated and dangerous for new people. its easy and just don’t let any cells go over 4.2 to be safe or even 4.1 to have them last a lot longer and be much safer. the vesc has low voltage cutoffs so it will shut down when the whole battery hits a certain low voltage you set it to. give it some headroom there too and with lipo you can get down to 3.5 and they will live a long time. 3.0 is possible but they last less cycles and since you’d have no bms to cut off any specific cell that went too low and only the whole pack voltage is monitored its’ better to stay at 3.5. theres not much under there anyway and there’s a cliff at mayb 2.8 and if the cell falls off that you might not get it back and it can be dangerous trying unless youre very cautious.
the vesc cant do many amps before it gets too hot. a hobby store 150amp esc on 6s would be fine probably but 6s on the vesc or even 8 …with amps and volts equaling power you have less voltage to add to the mix and are relying on just hot amps in the esc. maybe 6s would be ok if you add a heatsink to the fets. but get a decent vesc and they’re often a problem if you get them some places.
Id go 10s at least if doing one motor. you can limit the erpm easily in the settings and figure that when you get it if need be.
12s even better. a good vesc. some lipo. minitrigger. bulk charger and 2 balance dischargers is what I recommend if you want to be cheap. but this isn’t just cheap it’s reliable. the one thing that’s weird I recommend is adding a wattmeter in line with the bulk charger so you can see what voltage it will put out. a wattmeter there, soldered between the power source and its plug that will go to the battery (xt90s is awesome) and will tell you a lot and give you a lot more control and safety.
always be around when charging. its much better to be able to see and feel your lipos when charging to make sure they aren’t getting hot or puffing. a little bit of a permanent puff in a cell from discharging is ok but you have to be careful of heat and puff as they’re the signs of too much going in or out…or a cell being damaged. lipo are more easy to physically damage.
I’m prefer dual motor if possible (OCD) but i think i understand the part about the vesc/esc, what you are saying is for an vesc i should go 10s/12s to not heat up the vesc witch would heat up because less voltage = more amps= more heat. As for the battery config, the lipos are connected to the vesc, and the balancer in parallel , or is the balancer between the 2, or do i have it completely wrong? And you mentioned 2 balancers for charging, I’m confused as to how they would connect to the lipos and how the lipos would stay in sync, and also, Do i have it completely wrong? The discharges are in the enclosures at all time, only the charging cable is used to charge correct? And the cable connect the the balancers, witch in turn connect to the batteries? And for instance if i were to somehow make a port, the connection would be between the charger and the balancer? I hope i understood this correctly, and that I’m not hopelessly off… anyway i just wanted to say that I’m a fan of what you do and that I’m really happy that you took the time to help me out Oh and the charger, just any old charging cable off eBay with the correct voltage or is it one with a special connector? Thanks @Hummie
dual is nicer and the vesc has traction control that makes it really shine.
yes with the less amps with more voltage
you don’t put the balancer in the board it just goes on any other time. so take the xt90s plug out of the vesc, if you were just riding, and plug it into the power supply to charge, after the power supply is already plugged into the wall, and you checked the wattmeter wired onto it to make sure what voltage will come out is what you want, …actually step back a bit and plug the discharge balancer into the cells first and leave it plugged in. it will balance them all down to the lowest whenever it’s plugged in. you can leave the balancer plugged in anytime so if you want to completely balance the cells you’ll have to leave it on a while. the balancers without the bulbs, as I use it, takes a long time. I do it anyway. sometimes the balancer will shut off from maybe being too hot. take it off put it back on screen comes back. they’re really weak things and been all over trying to get a small 12s more powerful one you cant use any old of ebay. I’m not sure how close to “any old” you can do but remember it being important for it to be “regulated” it could be a switching or linear supply and those differences are interesting but unimportant. so some laptop supplies are good some not. but if you want to be cheap and safer and with more control get an adjustable one. someone here linked me to this beauty with golden knob and lucky led screen. but sold out and I got it! https://www.amazon.com/LM-High-precision-High-stability-Certification-Communications/dp/B06ZYDZCG9/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511377469&sr=8-4&keywords=switching+power+supply+60v this is to 60v and I’ll only charge to 50 and it says adjustable but not sure if it can get down there. got it like that assuming the components will be more robust. As soon as I get my hands on a three prong tail cut off a microwave and another found couple wires. these things are weird and I advise mounting it on the wall. I’ve dropped mine many times and it has broken. long long plugs and mounted on the ceiling next time. and wattmeter potted into the plug rock solid biggest plug the better. charge in an aluminum trash can or better a metal filing cabinet you can roll outside if things went wrong and maybe you should do this regardless of what you charge with maybe even a bms. I like to talk about charging no problem. but maybe you don’t want to do any of this and get a bms instead. maybe its safer. its not cheaper, reliability is debatable, its way more powerful and fast, leaves you with more space in the board.
About the ESCs…there are a lot of ppl using VESC on 6s and you would be using just 1400W motor on each, so the load would not be that big, about 63A,which would probably get theVESC hot, but remember all those guys running single 6374 with 80A 
Otherway you can buy twin 6S ESC, this one could work, I am using similar and it is good, even the brakes work well, if you set them up correctly 
There are also some on ebay, but they usually have bad brakes, can not be set up…
Or you can buy 2 6S ESCs and use signal amplifier (maybe differnet name) for the reciever…
P.S. I love you @Hummie, it is nice that a “big fish” like you comes to help begginers
Ive never read of people using the vesc and one motor or two and just 6s. I have read of people having trouble on 8s. but all depends what youre doing I guess.
and I love you too @aigenic. and newbies.
Ok so I’m looking at the deals, ready to buy, as of right now this is what I’m looking at as of right now
Remote: DIY / tb 2.4 remote, on sale Kit: also diy single motor kit (with trucks and wheels) Motor: sk3 6374 Batteries: 10s3p zippy lipos 2700 mAh 35c(say I have 4 in series, can I connect 2 more I’m parallel?) Vesc: diy ( can’t afford focbox) Power switch: will buy, don’t know which, noticed that on their site there where different types, wanted to know if there is a difference Bms: unknown Charging: working on it Deck: vanguard second hand/ freeride
Only problem now is enclosures, and how do I connect the cables over the deck? What type of flat wire do I use to do so? If someone could link something it would be great, if searched but people who did it didn’t really explain how and with what… Anyway, if I have any mistakes, things missing ( I just want to make sure I don’t buy everything and then I won’t be able to connect them because they’re incompatible/ different connectors and whatnot) If that’s all I buy will I have a fully functional board? Btw thanks in advance!!!
Remote: OK, This one is cheaper, doesnt loose signal…
Motor: I guess you plan on using 192kv?
Betteries: If i understand your question right, then no, it is not possible…
VESC: FOCBOX is on sale! Buy if you can afford it http://www.enertionboards.com/
Power switch: I see just this one there
Wires: here, you just have to find how much amps which one transmits…you will need 80a at least if I count correctly
Yea it’s on sale for really cheap, but it doesn’t ship to where I live and I only go to the us in Feb, and I have no where to keep it… The focbox and the remote both would buy but it won’t work out, and the switch is sold out but I guess I’ll just wait, and do I also need an xt90s loop key, or is the switch enough? And those wires look great btw thanks, and when u said how many amps, what changes it? Now all I need is patience and I hope the airport won have a problem with the motor or anything… Thanks!
If you have XT90s loop key, you dont need a switch
I meant with it that you have to make sure that the wire choosen by you can transmit enough amps, otherwise it would burn out…If i remember correctly 12mm wide wire can transfer enough amps, but I am not sure, you will make better if you ask the seller or look for it on their webside, if they have any…
Thanks but if I have a switch would I need a key? Or also no?
No 10 char
say i have this diagram right:
in places like the battery meter how do I make split the cable like that? is it with this?
and the red cable thats splits for the charging port. what do i use? basically how do I make 1 cable 2.
and say its dual motor, do i feed both cables into the master vesc, or do i split each with the image before?
and as for the charging port,
how does this connect to the bms? do i cut the white part and solder it? cause i didnt see a balance port on the bms for charging. did i just miss it?
i’ve been searching for a long while, but it seems like most people just kinda know these things, and i feel like im just out of the loop, ik that i need to research, but im just reading the same posts over and over, so yea…
did i get it right?
You cant use 12S on VESC with 230kv motor, you are exceeding eRPM limit! You can limit that, but you will never reach the motor’s full potential…
yea thats a mistake, its 2 170 kv motors (hopefully)