Hi guys - this forum is awesome. I got a boosted board about 6 months ago and still kind of can’t believe these things exist. I’m in the process of building my first custom board now. Here’s what I’ve got so far:
My goal is to create a simple-looking, short(ish) cruiser that has roughly a 20 mile range and can go 30mph. The range of the boosted board is seriously limiting (I know that’s not news to anyone here…). I also want the ability to ride faster than traffic (speed limit is 25mph in Manhattan) because being tailgated by taxi cabs scares the crap out of me. On a motorcycle, the ability to quickly ride away from a less-than-ideal situation can be just as important as having reliable breaks. I think this idea carries over to riding electric skateboards in busy cities.
If possible, I’d like to mount my motors on the front side of the back trucks, but I think that the battery/VESCs might take up too much room and I’ll have to mount them under the kicktail. We’ll see.
I really don’t know much(anything) about batteries and am having trouble identifying a good one. I’ve read that 30Q cells are the best? I also am kind of unsure of how to determine the length (circumference) of the belts.
As I begin to put things together I’ll post pictures.
What do you guys think? I am (desperately) open to suggestions!
I tried kydex and it was okay, but sizes larger than 1x1ft start to become expensive. I made an enclosure with it and it was okay (2pcs like boosted), but i have massive batteries, so I am going to use fiberglass mat. The fiberglass mat here in SF is cheap (Tap Plastics FTW), polyester resin and that stuff comes only in like quart sizes, but that means extra for later if you like the process. Overall, the price to make fiberglass enclosure is around $35 USD. I think it is the more fun route because I like the DIY, but enclosures like @psychotiller’s is also good but not diy
I was also thinking about a fuse for a while, but decided not to use it. I think that esk8 without a fuse is safer. People had accidents when fuse suddenly burned out at full speed.
Also I use XT90S plug instead of power button & antispark switch. So that I can completely power off all electronic parts. Also there is no chance to accidentally power off the board while riding (if a stone hits the power button or something like this).
Also I think it is better not to use any can bus wires, plug adapters, etc. The best way is to solder all wires directly to VESCs and the remote receiver.
My board was doing weird things (like suddenly braking or accelerating) when some of these plugs become loose from shaking, although I thought I did everything needed for them to stay in place. After I removed all plugs and soldered all wires, my board became bullet proof.
Another thing that happened to me was that after riding on some bumpy road, one of the driving wheels started to turn in the opposite direction. It was really weird to see. It happened because one of the banana plugs on the motor phase wires become loose. So make sure these banana plugs are really tight.