Charger all depends on how much you want to spend on it and how long you want to wait for a full charge basically. Since you effectively have 7.5Ah 6S if you were to charge at a 1C rate which is always safe then you’d be charging at 7.5A (can usually go 2C or higher with these high discharge rate batteries but would check manufacturer specs if you’re interested in faster charge times and don’t care about the cost of the charger).
Basically since you have 6S fully charged that’s 25.2V. If you wanted to charge at 1C you’d be done charging in about an hour when fully empty but would be charging at a rate of 7.5A, at that rate the charger needs to be able to handle at bare minimum 7.5A25.2V = 189W (assuming 20% loss in the charger can do 189W1.2=226W) So basically need a 230W charger to charge at that rate, if you cut the charger power in half to 115W you can charge at half the amps 1/2C rate which is good for long term cycles for the cells but will be slow (2hrs to fully charge + some balancing time). With a 40W charger you’d have to cut the amperage down, so 40W/25.2V ~= 1.5A, so to fill 7.5Ah at 1.5A it takes 7.5Ah/1.5A = 5hrs to fully charge. My setup I use a 80W charger with 2 5S 5Ah batteries, I charge them separately at 3.6A so it takes about an hour and 45min to fully charge each one if I deplete them completely (usually I just top them back up from 3.6V per cell so I’m actually filling like 3400mAh or less juice back in the pack and charge times are closer to 45min-1hr per battery).
Someone please correct me if I goofed on the math or explanation here anywhere.
Instead of getting a more expensive charger you might also consider just doubling up on the cheap ones and charging both batteries with different chargers.
Or if you want to make it rain
Be sure with whatever charger(s) you choose they have the right plug/transformer built in or comes along with it for your region.
after few month ifinally i found some time so i back to the my started project with E-longboard.
Ive changed baterry from poor lipo to li-ion Samsung 25r with Bestech 10s BMS. Then i build spot welder and make 10s4p battery
I design my enclosure in Solidworks and printed in 2 piece with 3d printer.
is it necessary to use antispark switch when my BMS have e-switch? I have lack of space in my enclosure so good if i can resign with antispark switch. I have also antispark XT90 before vesc
2)E-switch wires must be bridged during charging?
how to resolve power led switch which is ligh up (with very low light) when system is off
If you want to be able to have a modular setup, ability to remove stuff like vesc or disconnect the battery without sparks and simple, than yes you need one
After a year of riding i felt i need to change something.
The goal was to make something more stylish than ive got now with little bit more improvements.
So i run solidworks with inspiration of boostedboard style and that is my effects of work.
In this project ill use:
loaded vanguard clone deck (camber shape not included in SW sketches)
torque wide track
2x SK-6374 (buy one more since ive got one) or 2x6355
battery will stay but in another shape 10s4p - i’ve already little bit changed shape of original boosted enclosure to fit more batteries.
dual vesc still dont know which one will be the best Dual Foc box, or Dual vest from maytech or maybe someone suggest another solution for 2 motos.
Tracks with motor mount, skid plate and cover cap (skid plate and cover cap can be exchangeable) is already done - final version is nice and clean. Now ill start to make both enclosures.
