Hahahah I can’t help but laugh at that… Ever short a fully charged 12s? Mother fucking 50 volts 10amp hour it hurt my soul. Sounding like an arc welder
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Copper sheet painted in a thin polyurethane from smooth-on.com. Super thin and super conductive
You could make strips very thick and cut down on the wire inductance and maybe get away with the Long connections using foc
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Quickest way to learn 
After something like this extra careful all the time
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I had a company cut 2 half inch strips that were something like .51 mm thick. The area of the cross section of the copper strips was slightly bigger than 10 AWG wire.
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are those burn marks from the strip heating up?
No they are from soldering. I had to use a heat gun to get the temp hot enough to melt the solder. The copper strips dissipate the heat quickly, so a soldering iron is very difficult. I have ran it about 20 miles its there no heating issues at all.
I siliconed the copper strips to the board. They flex nicely.
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Love that setup!! Very similar to what I want to do. Do you have any pictures or info on your battery and battery enclosure build?
What about flat speaker wire: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005SUM1PO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1466257504&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=flat+speaker+wire&dpPl=1&dpID=41eS8rmTvnL&ref=plSrch
Battery enclosures i designed and 3d printed. For the batteries i just used 2 zippy flight max 5000 mah batteries.
Thats 16 AWG wire. A little small for what we need.
You could double up on the wire.
Looking at that screen shot, the boosted board seems to have thin sheet of white plastic between the kapton tape and the grip tape to protect the braided wires (from things like dropped screw drivers). That would probably protect them better than shrink wrap or even the wire’s silicon casing.
…and probably need something stiff there anyway to smooth out the 4 bumps or high spots in the deck that would otherwise be created by the 4 wires.
can you pls tell me how thick the shell/case (and are they solid) that you have for the battries and for the VESC’s. i wan’t to 3D print my cases to but i don’t know if they can take the load.
they are .5 mm thick which i think is the perfect thickness. They are partially filled on the inside to reduced weight and filament usage. Im new with the 3d printing. I went to 3dhubs.com and looked around for someone to print them. So far I have about 200 miles on my board with absolutely no problems. DM me if you have more questions.
Are the case alco 5mm under the deck or is the components just placer rigt under the deck?
What sort of material have you used to the cases ?
The orange foil looking stuff is called capton tape. Its like electical tape but not stretchey and will not melt. It will burn just wont melt, makin it great for batterys that get warm.
Are there a specific reason why you have not used cobber?
I don’t really know what cobber is