I started off with a 10S build using 120V Flier power switch. I’ve since used two and they have both seemed to break over a short amount of time. Recently I’ve found a 300A version and it seems to be working well. But looking at the picture started to make me wonder if it’s an issue of the 120A being too small, even though it says otherwise, or could it be regenerative braking? There’s an obvious arrow on the power switch showing where power goes in and then out of the unit. Anyone else wonder/have experience with switches going out? I haven’t had any issues with the 300A, yet, but lost two 120A switches.
Picture is to show the direction of travel for the power that is clearly labeled. Does anyone think it could be an issue of the unit receiving reverse current?
The two switches I lost were on my first build, the 300A is on a newer build when I upgraded the board to dual drive so it’s kind of like comparing apples to oranges at this point. Just wondering what others thoughts could be.
@Trdolan03 Did the LEDs work on them? I had one that died but the LED would stay lit. The other one turned out to have a bad switch. After replacing the switch it worked fine. I’m a little curious to know the better options too. Crossing my fingers on the 300A version, it’s holding up well so far.
The leds appear to work fine as I tested the circuitry of them with a multimeter and worked fine. The led is on in both positions and it doesn’t stop current flow anymore.
I can pretty much agree with this statement but I’m still wondering if the voltage spikes of regenerative braking “exist” and if it’s possible that was the reason for blowing a power switch board on one and a push button switch connected to the main unit of the other. Anyway…I guess it’s all just speculation. Possible it was my fault too.
This one