Hello guys, I need help! Today after riding a couple of hours, one of the vescs fried all of a sudden… Only one motor would spin, the other side was dead and red led was blinking. So I walked back home (!) and checked vesc tool. The faulty vesc never responded again while the other one was ok. After several attempts to have vesc tool reading the faulty vesc, also the second vesc died… So now when trying motor detection in vesc tool I get problem 11 message on both of them and won’t fix it. I’m on 12s lipo if that matters, vesc doesn’t show marks of burn or short out. It’s 1 month old. When I turn it on, it blinks blue first, green later and stays green until I pull the trigger of the remote. Then it blinks red and stays like that. I’ve just sent a message to flipsky but any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Edited to add links to the videos on Youtube to show the issue. You never know if someone is able to fix it!
I second this. If you paid with paypal, file there first. Their customer support is scummy and isn’t worth going through, they’ll likely say it’s your fault or not help at all.
I ended up having to file a chargeback myself after they refused to help my situation.
I see but there are parts in that order that actually do work well (motors, trucks, etc). Plus, They’ve already shipped a replacement for a faulty anti spark switch… That should be in the mail soon but that was my only and first chance to talk with their client service and was not too bad. On the other hand I’m very disappointed with the vesc failing at me after only one month of moderate use… I paid with credit card if that matters
Good luck my dude! They will only try to get your FSESC fixed and you will need to pay shipping yourself. How they treat customers is ridiculous. I have 2x dead FS 6.6’s and 2x dead 6374 motors because the ESC fried it while it had a spazm.
Not to shit on @kevingraehl because his deal hes offering is the best one as of right now. However Jeff Wu from Neo is selling V4 and V6 focboxes on the other forum for 80 and 120 respectively but they won’t be out until late february.
Thanks for pointing out… i’m quite in a rush because i’ve nothing to ride at this stage but thanks, that’s a good call and i’m very much new to the focboxes so i’m not even aware of what the differences are nor i know what @kevingraehl is selling. i’ve sent him message in PVT but have not heard from him yet. @itsrow: I’d appreciate any additional info you can provide!
https://forum./t/neobox-open-source-focbox-variant-hw-6-design/12426 @kevingraehl, give this a read fellas, and since its a unity @Secco, I wouldn’t buy it, relies on volunteer time to update the software because its not default VESC software and plagued with so many problems that will never be fixed because of enertion disbanding.
Edit: charging $400 for a unity (with 0 aftermarket support if something goes wrong) to someone looking for a quick replacement for a FSESC4.20 is a sizeable dick move.
Ahhhhh Jason fucked up my link, you little cheeky bastard you.
@kevingraehl is sellings focbox for $200 each. What a joke!!! Stay away from that opportunist and gets yourself on the other websites. Neobox is on its way for $80-$100 each. Theys plan to be a perfect replacement for focboxes since Enertions is goin under. Makersx from ebmakers is a good budgets esc that is currently available but they donts go too powerful ( hall sensor and uart pins are different though).
Hey Marco,
I went with Focbox Unity after Flipsky and am satisfied with Focbox Unity.
2 thing to remember when hookinh up Focbox Unity:
Keep the wires that deliver the power from your battery pack to your Focbox Unity to the absolute minimum length. Also, use wire of similar Diameter to those that are pre-installed on The Focbox Unity. Maybe 1 gauge size larger if you want, but no more.
Second thing to remember, the Focbox Unity works approximately the same if you leave the Sensor Ribbon Cables which come from same place as the 3 phase motor wires disconnected.
Thus, for higher Reliability, you might try leaving the Ribbon Cables not connected, at least initially. Leaving them disconnected means a little less precision when going slowly at 0-3 miles per hour, after that its about the same performance as with the ribbon cables connected. You should run the Guided Setuop without the ribbon cables connected and also disable the motor temp sensors in the Focbox UI software. Then just remember to check them occasionally if riding a far distance continuosly.
( I have hub motors, so if I have been riding a long time, I just spit a little bit on the tip of my finger and then touch the end of the motor wheel axle. If the spit turns to steam instantly, then you might want to let them cool down a bit. )
Last thing for repairing any VESC, there is a low cost tool that allows you to fix perhaps 50% of the problems you will encounter. There is a great article about how to do it online. Just copy and paste this in to Google Search: Unity not booting? You are not alone! (How to fix the bootloader (https://forum./t/unity-not-booting-you-are-not-alone-how-to-fix-the-bootloader/9582)
Thanks guys. this is all pretty much useful. I’m a newb in e-sk8 and this was my first build. I’m currently facing the first issues with vescs failing at me etc so any advice is very much welcome. BTW i’ve ordered a Go-FOC Retro from Maker X yesterday and upon inquiring about shipment they just reverted saying that it’s going to be delayed to february because of Chinese new year. I just wanted a decent replacement for my broken flipsky but it looks like this is way more diffcult then expected. I think i’ll cancel that order and wait for neobox but… yeah last few days were quite frustrating.