FocBox Tenka Question(s)

perfect thank you! Also, I am turning on my esc after setting up detection/ limits and it connects with my remote (the blue light on the receiver stops blinking and goes solid, and so does the indicator on the controller), but when I give it throttle, I get no response. I think it may have something to do with the JST connector into the coms port. In every video I watch, the connector fits seamlessly into the comms port on the esc, but my UART cable has one extra pin slot on the JST connector. The extra hole was empty, so I cut the end one off so it fits in my comms port. I bet the wire placement/ order is incorrect. Can you rearrange the wires on a JST connector or will that break the connector?

Edit: It looks like the orange and green pins on the JST side of the wire are flipped, but are in the current place on the receiver side, so they’re only backwards on the side connecting to the esc. Is it possible to flip them? I don’t think soldering is possible because the wire is so incredibly thin, so if its possible to move them on the just connector? Also, another thing: I have a JST 2 pin to connect to my esc as a voltage monitor. Can I just stick the other end of the white wire into that JST connector so the voltage monitor on the remote functions? Sorry that’s a lot lol, I’m very eager to have this running as reliably as I can :slight_smile:

Edit 2: I switched the wires on the just connector to match every videos wire arrangement, but the esc still doesn’t respond to the remote. The receiver still stops flashing and goes solid and so does the remote, yet the system doesn’t seem to respond to any inputs.

Did you set up input from vesc tool? You need to do that after doing motor detection. If you don’t see any signal, that means the wiring is wrong.

What is your remote btw? I can understand it better once i Know it.

Btw, if you @me, i can respond quicker. I’m rarely on here so a quick @ will hit my email notification.

Im using the pilot remote aka the VX1 paired to my tenka. Ill go check the setup from the vesc tool again. Also, the ppm cable they give you with the remote I bought uses a 3 pin PST PH and the tenka has a JST XH receiver so I’m ordering that connector now too :roll_eyes:

Edit: Perfect, Ill @ you if its urgent

Yeah that sucks. I thought it came with the tenka?

That’s sounds mad lazy not giving it.

yeah its a bit weird, the ppm cable in the box has one ridge along it, but the tenkas receiver for the cable has two slots for ridges in it and the pins are more spread out.

Im also wanting to put a battery % monitor on the board, do you have any suggestions of good brands or ones to use? The enclosure I bought has a cutout for one so i might as well use it, it’ll be one less hole or dust and whatnot to get in through

I actually brought this one:

DC 12V 24V 36V 48V 72V Battery Meter, Battery Capacity Voltage Monitor Gauge Indicator, Lead-Acid&Lithium ion Battery Tester, for Golf Cart RV Marine Boat Club Car Motorcycle - With Alarm, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V8S9PCX/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_YTTQ5HTSNGTMY0XFHXEM?psc=1

A small note tho, you might need to just solder the back of it if this ever broke:

But it works great:

White is the best looking color.

Dont @ me.

haha alright ill give that one a look, on the vesc tool side of things, I’ve got it hooked up. What should I be looking for? Its set to UART but I’m not sure why its still working

Set it to ppm/uart. And then see if theres a signal.

Will do, also what would you reccomend the regen current be set to?

Edit: Is 40.8V a good cutoff start? 37.2v would be the cutoff end

Anywhere in the range of -15 - -30A

This is your hard brake from high speed. Your motor brake doesn’t hit until after.

Edited:

I’m a madlad. I would put it much lower lol. But yes, that’s great.

Mine would be:

39.6 start, 36v end.

Think of it like this, if someone got in your way when you’re going over 25, the brake that starts is your regen brake, not the motor one. The motor one will hit after your speed lowers, giving you a hard brake (if this is set high.) If you want smooth braking, you can lower the motor brake and slightly lower the regen (you still want this at least high for higher speed).

So if i want it to brake more gentle, have it lower but if I want it to brake hard have it higher?

I also still get no response from the board when using the remote, do I need to set the control type or anything for the ppm/ uart tabs?

Under the “control type” tab for ppm there’s a setting for “current No reverse with brake” and that sounds like something that may be relevant but whatta I know

Excuse me?

Yeah the answers are there.

No, once you do the input set up, you should see on your screen the input moving left and right when you hit the throttle. If this doesn’t happen, its not set up on the esc (apparently not plugged in). The current no reverse is basically moving forward and braking but you don’t have reverse.

Can you show me your connection for your esc? I need a nice profile look.

Example:

Mine is much more messy lol but here: Also, it says under the general tab, “Pairing done” and its set to false, is that relevant?

Uploading: IMG_6996.HEIC…

Pairing done doesn’t mean much. Im a bit confused on this. Is the last one the ppm slot?

I just mirrored what i saw on the other focbox setup videos, so I’m not really sure

Alright. Give me a sec to see. I’ll edit after. But if that is the ppm slot, I would definitely use that over uart.

well the ppm cable with this is a 3 pin that doesn’t fit in the other port.

Yeah. It was the ppm. After looking at how its set up, im not sure. Was it the DIYE video?