FocBox Tenka Question(s)

Then a 10s5p would do you good. All you need is to change the gearing ratio on the motor pulley/wheel pulley. Think of the 10s as the “sweet spot” of battery builds.

so im trying to keep it simple and avoid buying new trucks, Im currently running evolve 66T and 32T wheel pulleys, what would you recommend?

Motor pulley side then. You can also change that to fit what you like as well. Im assuming its a 15T pulley on the motor side. But you should be fine anyway. If you need more torque, just lower the motor teeth pulley side to around 13T to keep speed as well.

my Flipsky motors came with 13T motor pulleys fortunately, so it sounds like ill be ok with that. ill order a battery in the near future and update you when that comes in. Is it worth trying to make a 10s5p out of my existing 10s4p battery? I haven’t looked into it too much, but I’m assuming I can cannibalize my battery and remove the cells from the PCB to allow it to be compatible with the electronics of my choice. Is that worth saving for a future project? The cells themselves are in good condition according to the evolve r2 remote so I’d feel bad getting rid of them. Plus, they’re probably good for a backup battery if anything happens to my new one, no?

I would save them if they can still hold charge. I had my cells for over 4 years and they still hold charge very well. As long as you keep it at 3.6v per cell, you can definitely save it. However, if you’re making a 10s5p with those cells, they have to be the same exact cells. But they’re not the best for esk8 due to voltage sag. And these cells have only 8A discharge current so you’re definitely going to suffer using those. Unless you’re like me making a 10s10p with these cells, i wouldn’t use them as your main source.

Definitely good back up batteries tho.

Yes, if you have a spotwelder and the nickel strips necessary, you can do it just fine. Do be very careful with batteries though.

Alright, thank you for bearing with me on this project, I have just ordered my Panasonic 21700 12s4p battery from Boundmotor.com, I am now trying to find the right size belts ill be needing for my street and AT set up. I have these 63mm motor mounts from LectricBoardSolutions (Here) and I need to know what size belts I need. I have a 16T motor pulley and 32T street pulleys with 66T AT pulleys. Do you know where I can find a conversion chart or something to calculate the belt sizes I need?

I got you.

Just measure your motor shaft and axel for center to center measurement. And then add your motor and wheel pulley in the calculator.

Sick, thank you!

Has anyone powered a strip of led’s from the 5v (on the coms or can line) out on the tenka? I have check the led strip on a power supply and the are pulling 1.9amps Not sure it this will be too much for the onboard bec as i cant find any spec’s on what it can handle.

get yourself a dc-dc converter from your main battery, never a good idea to steal 3.3 or 5v from any (v)esc

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Im having trouble finding a 270mm belt in 15mm width. Is is ok to use a 12mm belt on a 15mm motor and wheel pulley? The motor pulley has a flange on the end and the wheel pulley has a small lip to prevent the belt from coming off. Id imagine that given the belt is the right length, the width would be ok to be shorter. I would figure that as long as the belt isn’t too wide it would be ok, no?

HTD 5M Close Loop Pulley Timing Belt Pitch 5mm Perimeter 270mm Width 15mm (5M-270, 15mm Width) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RRQ7PPM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_RJNA4RGTENJM8GS20ZVR

Not sure if you can get it, but use this as reference.

That might cause something bad since its small. The wider it can get, the better since all you need to do is cut it as neatly as possible. A small one might move around and might slip out. That happened to me.

I dont know why that didnt come up when I typed “HTD 5M 270mm” in Amazon lol, thanks yet again :laughing: Another question, the focbox Tenka comes with a built in aluminum heatsink, how do I mount that on my board? Do I need to mount it to a built in heatsink in my enclosure? If the heatsink is inside the enclosure attached to the esc, it doesn’t do much id figure. So my question is, do I need to attach an external heatsink to mount the esc to?

edit: Also, where do I buy the thermal conductive double sided tape for mounting it? Or is it ok to just use standard double sided foam tape?

If your enclosure has a built in heatsink, you only need to mount it on that heatsink. It pretty much saved you from buying an external heatsink and cutting your enclosure to create one.

I use velcro. But like a genie, here you go:

Thermal Adhesive Tape 30mm by 25M, HPFIX High Performance Thermally Conductive Tape Apply for Coolers, Heat Sink, LED Strips, Computer CPU, GPU, Easy to Apply & High Durability https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075F37SQG/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_JHKJVN00XA74FQ6MPYG3

I’ll probably buy this as well lol

Edit: I’m not sure if the tape is good, but i would just mount the esc to the enclosure if it has the holes for it.

This is my current deck/ enclosure, there is no cutout or built in heatsink. I could buy one and make a cutout for it, but it sounds like you’re saying I don’t actually need an external heatsink. In that case, where do I mount my esc heatsink on the setup? Is it ok to mount to the plastic enclosure? It seems like that may not be a great idea.

Edit: Thanks for the link and the advice btw. Also, I figure that if the heatsink isn’t exposed to open air, it would just heat up the enclosure and overheat, is that not the case?

Then it’ll be up to you if you want to make the heatsink for it. My response was for if you had a built in one.

I don’t know about the tenka, but my makerx has been in an enclosure and i haven’t experience overheating issues. Just that it does get hot after riding a lot. But my enclosure is pure fiberglass so heat is nothing. If you want, you can make your own heatsink and glue/silicone the heatsink and make mounting holes for the esc to be on it.

Long work process but good if you want the esc to get decent cooling.

But for the other questions:

Small square looking side.

Nope. High heat can cause warping. You need to put aluminum tape or something that can handle the heat so the plastic don’t melt. Long work process. You need something that doesn’t allow heat to pass and melt the plastic. There is a tape for that.

Ah yes the “where do i mount it” more referred to wether I find a way to bolt it to the deck or mount it to the enclosure, but it looks like I got my answer there. I think I might get threaded spacers and mount the metal spacers between the esc and deck. otherwise ill see if I can get a fin-style heatsink or make one at home to mount to the esc. Thanks again!

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Hope to read how it goes for you. Until then.

Alright, the battery is in and I have it hooked up to the VESC tool. I have the Panasonic 12s4p 21700, should I still be writing the battery current max as 15a each side?

You can put 20A each for safety. Im not familiar with their panasonics tbh.

Regen current can go a bit higher if the brakes are weak (higher speed).