That may be the case, if so, I think the OP should open up the heatshrink to verify.
They know exactly what they are doing, they make a lot of money. I know what they are doing too, they make the cheapest vescs and don’t care about Qc. However they do know how to solder some caps to a wire, as do I considering I did it a few weeks back and can tell you rn that those caps are more than likely connected and that the whole wire insulation does not need to be removed nor is it
What? Do you think maytech are really that dumb, they make some of the best motors and other electronics we have. They also have their own designs for escs, I’m pretty sure whoever their engineer is would realise they are connected
Idk what that was meant to show but it does show the protruding pcb legs I was talking about that the wires are soldered to
I have a few at home. They are just like the cheap flipskys. They work well within their limits but they do not like being pushed outside of them at all.
I am no expert but they seem to be just floating capacitors without a connection to the pcb or wires.
Since these esc are faulty anyway please open up the heat shrink and pull the wires from the capacitors to judge.
Well spotted. Luckily they seem to be connected after all.
My apologies. From what I could tell, it looked to me that the capacitors were not connected. You know more than I do about the construction of this brand of VESC. TB ESCs do it differently, that is why I made such a mistake in judgment.
But I still think the connection should be verified, the solder joint could still be faulty (it happens, especially with the lead-free rubbish that everyone is forced to use these days, cold joints are not uncommon, even under proper reflow conditions). The vibration from riding would only exacerbate such a fault if it were to occur.
If the connection is good, then my best guess would be OP was running a BMS and had a tad too much regen and an overvoltage condition occurred. What would’ve happened there was overvoltage caused the buck converter to fail, which in turn overloaded the 5V TVS diode. He should change the overvoltage cutoff setting to 52V if this is indeed the case. I’ve had BMSes cut off my ESCs during regen, but since this happened in unloaded conditions, the ESCs survived. Since the OP had some momentum and I’m guessing attempted to regen, the VESC didn’t cut off from overvoltage soon enough.
@slade try setting the maximum input voltage to 52V, batt regen current to -20A, and undercharge your battery pack a little bit, something like 0.1 or 0.2V per cell.
Battery current max regen at -30 is pretty high. What kind of battery you running?
Just to confirm, 30A for each one? It’s a dual setup.
The DC input wires out of shot are 10 or 12 gauge wire, with exposed and tinned leads. I added 5mm male bullet connectors to them.
I am using the can connector cable that was given to me by the user on the forums that I bought the first two from.
I did continuity checks on the wires, and haven’t seen an issue with them.
It’s incredibly hard to tell, but there is a slice of insulation missing from the DC input wires, and the exposed part of the wire is soldered to the electrolytic cap’s PCB.
IF all that I have to do is replace the DRV chips I can definitely do that myself, but I’m not even fully sure if that is the real issue
Any of these would be fine replacement DRVs?
Okay, the can connector is fine. Maytech supllied me the can connector with all 4 wires in it which killed my Canbus chip.
It’s a custom battery pack I made with Samsung 30Qs in a 12s4p configuration.
Jeezus lower that battery current right away. You could be pumping upto 60a into that battery at some points. This is not safe for the battery nor the esc. I missed this setting, this could be what is cooking your vesc. It should be set to 8a each esc or 16a if it’s only 1. The max charge rate on the 30q is 4a and you’ve got it in a 4p so 16a.
Could you do a light strain/stress test to ensure the solder joint is good? I’ve had bad solder joints on my ESCs before, but the worst thing it did for them was make the motor cog a bit.
In order to verify that the DRV8302 does indeed need to be replaced, check if batt positive and batt negative are short-circuited to each other (use both continuity and ohms mode, ohms mode won’t beep, but anything less than a few kilo ohms is a short. On both tests HOLD IT FOR A FEW SECONDS since the caps need to charge up to get an accurate reading). If there is a short, DRV8302 needs to be replaced. If there is not a short, replace the 5V TVS diode with a new one, make sure the polarity is the same as the original. If the DRV8302 is still good, lights will come on, and hopefully the ESC will work. If not, the new 5V TVS diode will die (and need to replaced again) and nothing will light up. If the latter happens, both the DRV8302 and the new 5V TVS diode you soldered on will need to be replaced.
The 5V TVS diode can be found here (btw, those MOSFETS are the IPB014N06NATMA1 and not the IRFS7530 rubbish :D).
MAKE SURE a functioning 5V TVS diode is ALWAYS present when electrically testing with power.
Once the DRV8302 and 5V TVS Diode are removed, check for shorts between batt positive and batt negative and shorts to ground on the 5V and 3.3V rails. If no shorts are present, those should be the only two components you need to replace and I think you can then solder on the new components.
Remember that the DRV8302 has an exposed ground pad underneath it; you will need hot air to remove it and to solder on a new one. I didn’t realize this when I was repairing my friend’s VESC and knocked a couple of caps off.
And yes, Arrow.com sells genuine electronic components, they are the second largest electronics distributor for OEMs. Digikey is just the most well known among hobbyists since they started as a hobby distributor and now have the widest selection of online catalog parts in stock (and ready to ship same day) than any other distributor.
Would you happen to know the name of the TVS diode? I’m about to buy the DRV chips on Arrow and it would be nice to get the diode as well.
Yes for each only 30a battery max