I’m a big fan of the nunchuck form factor, but I got a little tired of the drops and full-speed throttle stick incidents (Nyko Kama to Vesc). I love the reliability of the GT2B, but the case is huge and I’ve never liked the trigger throttles. So, inspired by BadWolf and a couple other mod cases I’ve seen here, I decided to start this project.
Compact- a bit bigger than the Nyko Kama, but easily fits in the hand and doesn’t look like a gun.
Minimal modification to gt2b hardware- battery needs to be “peeled” and leads soldered on, small part of the POT mount needs to be filed (or you can remove the POT pcb and solder directly to the POT leads).
Sturdy- case is a minimum 2mm thick, more in high-stress/likely impact points
I’ve been slowly learning OnShape as I go with this project, I had zero parametric CAD modelling experience prior to starting this case project a few weeks ago (mostly I’ve been using sketchup). OnShape is awesome for me as it’s web browser based, I can draw a little during downtimes at work, I can draw at home, I can draw on my phone or tablet- and it’s FREE (as long as you fit the criteria). So, please, if you see something that could be done better/more efficiently let me know- I’d love to get some feed back from experienced modellers.
This project is still very much Beta- let me know if you run into any problems and feel free to modify the files as you need (I’d love to see what you do with this, so please post links!).
Assembly Tips:I hope to make a little better tutorial once we iron out the kinks, but here’re some tips to help you early printer/adopters.
Case sides are designed to be printed flat side down without supports, same for the thumb throttle.
Steering POT is a 90 degree turn, trigger throttle pot is 50 degree- as it sits, I’m using the steering POT, but i plan on adding support for the 50 degree (short throw version).
See pic on the battery, insert as shown to the right case half (should be snug) and is held in place by the PCB.
PCB and throttle mount with shorter screws, case halves go together with the longer screws (all screws taken from the GT2B during disassembly).
Dab some hot glue on the antenna wire where it’s soldered to the board (unless you like soldering really tiny/annoying shit back together).
Antenna fits in the “U” slots of the right case half- this is a very recent addition and I haven’t tested this print just yet.
Thumb throttle is a tight press fit onto bare POT d-shaft, original plastic shaft must be removed.
I originally designed the POT mount to have the PCB removed and just solder the wires directly to the POT legs, but you can leave the PCB attached and bend it backward to fit in the case (see pic) by cutting/shaving a little plastic off the steering POT mount itself.
Use the spring from the trigger throttle on the steering POT- it’s stiffer and gives better/positive feedback.
awesome, but why the cutouts for the trim and other dials? How often do you end up using them? It would also be nice to have thicker walls and a spot for a wriststrap like the wii remote.
For sure, a wrist-strap mounting point will be an easy addition.
The main reason for the cut-outs is to keep the case as slim as possible- as it sits, it’s a hair over 1" thick. I’ve gone through a few (read twenty plus!) iterations of this case and anything approaching 1.25" thick begins to feel unwieldy. The trim knobs sit just below the surface, so they are not easily inadvertently turned. The power switch is easy to manipulate as it sits just proud of the case mount and has a bevel around its opening.
As to the need for thicker walls, I’d rather re-enforce areas we find to be weak with fillets or strategically placed bracing on an as-needed basis. Thicker walls in a 3d print is not necessarily stronger, depending on your geometry and print medium.
Thanks for the response guys. @FLATLINEcustoms I’m sure you burned through a fair bit of filament with that sexy mad munkey case, that thing looks awesome!
I’ve printed the right side case with the antenna holder and it fits nice and snug. I’ve adjusted the left side case hole to better fit the POT body- CAD file is up to date, but not the .stl on thingiverse.
Ream the holes out with a 5/64" drill bit and the screws will fit perfect.
I’ve printed a version without LED cut-outs from natural PETG, it’s my favorite thus far- stuff looks like frosty diamonds. I’ve also created a thumbstick that works with the 50 degree sweep trigger POT (shorter POT in the images), but I haven’t tested this one yet.
I’ve put about 40 miles on the 90 degree steering POT as thumbstick- it’s awesome! Much better, precise control, even on my simple FVT 120a controller.
Here’re some better pics- you should be able to make out the general assembly process from the following:
I second that. The remote looks really intriguing with potential for an even sleeker look. @Qwiksand you should try to optimize it a little more and then this could be the go to enclosure next to the mad munkey.
Also as you can see in the mad munkey thread we found out that there are versions of the GT2B with different battery sizes out there. So your battery recess might not fit all of them.
@lowGuido This is good ol’ 'Merican Steez, not to be confused with whatever it is that qualifies as steez across the pond
@Maxid and @sl33py- I designed around the USB to eliminate the challenge of de-soldering/relocation, basically tried to remove as many barriers to entry for the less experienced DIY’ers out there (I type that like everyone has a 3d printer, but you get what I mean ). The only real soldering needed for this case is on the battery leads.
The USB nub in this version actually helps you to hold the case- or maybe I’ve just gotten used to it and I’m making excuses now
Of course, this is why I’ve made the source files available to anyone who cares to hack- happy modding!
Thanks for the feedback guys, I appreciate the responses